Joan's Lewis & Clark Geek Page

December 31st Tuesday 1805

[Clark]   last night was Cloudy and Some rain, this day prove Cloudy and Showerry are day, all the Indians Continue at their Camp near us, two other Canoes arrived, one from the War ci â cum Village with 3 indians and the other of 3 men & a Squar from higher up the river and are of the Skil-lute nation, those people brought with them Some Wappato roots, mats made of flags and rushes dried fish, and a fiew Shaw-na tâh-que and Dressed Elk Skins, all of which they asked enormous prices for, perticularly the dressed Elk Skins, I purchased of those people Some Wap pa to two mats and about 3 pipes of their tobacco in a neet little bag made of rushes—    This tobacco was much like what we had Seen before with the So So ne or Snake indians, for those articles I gave a large fishing hook and Several other Small articles, the fishing hooks they were verry fond of. Those Skil lutes are much better behaved than the War ci a cum indeed we found a great alteration in the Conduct of them all this morning, the Sight of our Sentinal on his post at the gate, together with our deturmined proseedure of putting all out at Sun Set has made this reform in those War ci a coms who is foward impertinant an thieveish.

The nativs all leave us the fort this evening before Sun Set without being told or desired to do So—    we had Sinks dug & a Sentinal box made—    a Skil lute brought a gun which he requested me to have repared, it only wanted a Screw flattened So as to Catch, I put a flint into his gun & he presented me in return a peck of Wappato for payment, I gave him piece [NB: piece] of a Sheap Skin and a Small piece of blue Cloth to Cover his lock for which he was much pleased and gave me in return Some roots &c.

  I Saw flies and different kinds of insects in motion to day—    Snakes are yet to be Seen and Snales without Covers is Common and verry large water    fowls of various kinds are in great numbers in the rivers and Creeks and the sides of Meriwethers Bay near us but excessively wild—  the fore part of this night fair and Clear

     With the party of Clât Sops who visited us last was a man of much lighter Coloured than the nativs are generaly,   he was freckled with long duskey red hair, about 25 years of age, and must Certainly be half white at least, this man appeared to understand more of the English language than the others of his party, but did not Speak a word of English, he possessed all the habits of the indians

 

Clark seems to really enjoy haggling with the various tribesmen.  Now that the Group has a more formal approach to visitors, it probably gives him a real edge and there seems to be plenty of natives in the area.

The red-headed Indian Clark mentions is probably the man known to the Astorians as Jack Ramsay, because that name was tattooed on his left arm. His father had deserted or was shipwrecked from a British trading vessel—a very early one, judging from the man's apparent age. An Indian with red hair would have to have inherited genes for the trait from both parents. There are legends, apparently with some basis in fact, that a Spanish ship was shipwrecked in the area, perhaps in 1707, the survivors leaving both red-haired and black descendents, one of whom called himself Soto. Thus the redheaded man Lewis and Clark saw could have had European ancestry on both sides.

The above information is from footnotes.

December 30, Monday 1805

[Clark]   Hard wind and Some rain last night.    this morning the Sun Shown for a Short time—    four Indians came down from the War cia cum Village, they offered us roots which we did not think proper to accept of as in return they expect 3 or 4 times as much as the roots as we Could purchase the Roots for, and are never Satisfied with what they receive, those 4 Indians & these that Came yesterday stayed all day. Drewyer returned and informed that he had killed 4 Elk at no great distance off, a party of 6 men was imediately dispatched for the meat, and returned at Dusk with the 4 Elk—    we had a Sumptious Supper of Elks tongues & marrow bones which was truly gratifying—    our fortification is Completed this evening—and at Sun Set we let the nativs know that our Custom will be in future, to Shut the gates at Sun Set at which time all Indians must go out of the fort and not return into it untill next morning after Sunrise at which time the gates will be opened, those of the War ci a cum Nation who are very foward left the houses with reluctianc    this day proved to be the fairest and best which we have had since our arrival at this place, only three Showers dureing this whole day, wind the fore part of the day.

They declare Fort Clatsop finished and establish rules for receiving and ending visitors' length of stay.  Also, have a successful hunt for elk and greatly enjoy a day with scattered showers.  Things are looking up for the New Year.

December 29th Sunday 1805

[Clark]  rained all the last night as usial, this morning Cloudy without rain, a hard wind from the S. E    I gave the Cheif a razor, and himself and party left us after begging us for maney articles none of which they recvied as we Could not Spare the articles they were most in want of. Peter Crusat Sick with a violent Cold, Y. [York] better.    all hands employed about the Pickets & gates of the fort.    we were informed day before yesterday that a whale had foundered on the coast to the S. W. near the Kil a mox N. and that the greater part of the Clat Sops were gorn for the oile & blubber, the wind proves too high for us to proceed by water to See this monster, Capt Lewis has been in readiness Since we first heard of the whale to go and see it and collect Some of its Oil, the wind has proved too high as yet for him to proceed—    this evining a young Chief 4 Men and 2 womin of the War ci a cum Nation arrived, and offered for Sale Dressed Elk Skins and Wap pa to, the Chief made us a preasent of about ½ a bushel of those roots.    and we purchased about 1½ bushels of those roots for which we gave Some fiew red beeds Small peaces of brass wire & old Check    those roots proved a greatfull addition to our Spoiled Elk, which has become verry disagreeable both to the taste & Smell    we gave this Chief a Medal of a Small Size and a piece of red riben to tie around the top of his hat which was of a Singular Construction   [NB: in Peales Museum]    Those people will not Sell all their Wap pa to to us they inform us that they are on their way to trade with the Clât Sops.    The nations above Carry on a verry Considerable interchange of property with those in this neighbourhood.    they pass altogether by water, they have no roads or pathes through the Countrey which we have observed, except across portages from one Creek to another, all go litely dressed ware nothing below the waste in the Coaldest of weather, a piece of fur around their bodies and a Short roabe Composes the Sum total of their dress, except a few hats, and beeds about their necks arms and legs    Small badly made and homely generally. The flees are So noumerous and hard to get rid of; that the Indians have different houses which they resort to occasionally, not withstanding all their precautions they never Step into our house without leaveing Sworms of those tormenting insects; and they torment us in Such a manner as to deprive us of half the nights Sleep frequently—    the first of those insects which we saw on the Columbian waters was at the Canoe portage at the great falls. Hard winds & Cloudy all day but verry little rain to day.

    Clark does some trading with a different tribe,  afterwards naming them "Wahkiakum Indians", and adds some good roots to their meager supply of food.  The party also gets word of a beached whale which causes no little interest, but the rough weather doesn't lend itself to venturing out and the "flees" stay with them.

December 28th Saturday 1805

[Clark]  rained as usial the greater part of the last night and a continuation this morning accompanied with wind from the S East    Derected Drewyer, Shannon, Labeash, Reuben Field, and Collins to hunt; Jos. Fields, Bratten, Gibson to proceed to the Ocean at Some convenient place form a Camp and Commence makeing Salt with 5 of the largest Kittles, and Willard and Wiser to assist them in Carrying the Kittles to the Sea Coast— all the other men to be employed about putting up picketes & makeing the gates of the fort.    Y. [York] verry unwell from a violent Coald and Strain by Carrying meet from the woods and lifting the heavy logs on the works &c.    rained all Day without intermition.    the Weather verry worm.

Evidently the salt making consisted of using their largest kettles to simply boil off the water.  The detail usually was made up with three men and they continued this activity on into February. Total production amounted to three or four bushels of salt.  The Party, as usual, is busy as can be with hunting and finishing work on their stockade.

December 27th Friday 1805

[Clark]   rained last night as usial and the greater part of this day. In the evening Co-mo wool the Chief and 4 men of the Clat Sop nation the[y] presented us a root   which resembles the licquirish in Size and taste, which they roste like a potato which they Call Cul ho-mo, also a black root which is cured in a kill like the pash-a-co above; this root has a Sweet taste and the natives are verry fond of it—    they Call this root Shaw-na-tâh-que. also a dried berry about the size of a Chery which they Call Shele well all those roots those Indians value highly and give them verry Spearingly. in return for the above roots Capt Lewis gave the Chief a Small piece of Sheap Skin to Ware on his head, I gave his Son a par of ear bobs and a pece of ribon, and a Small piece of brass for which they were much pleased.

  Those roots and berries are timely and extreamly greatfull to our Stomachs, we as have nothing to eate but Spoiled Elk meat, I Showed Capt L. 2 Musquetors to day, or an insect So much the Size Shape and appearance of a Musquetor that we Could observe no kind of differance.

The seemingly permanent rain continues and Clark and Lewis really enjoy a change of diet from the spoiled elk. They also sent out several hunters today which Clark's post doesn't mention but others in the party do. The "musquetor" mentioned by Clark is perhaps crane flies, family Tipulidae.

December 26th Thursday 1805

[Clark] rained and blew with great Violence S E all the last night, Some hard Claps of Thunder, the rain as usial Continued all day—    we dry our wet articles before the fire, and have our blankets fleed, great numbers were Caught out of the blankets, those trouble insects are So abundant that we have to have them killd. out of our blankets every day or get no Sleep at night—    The powder in maney of the mens horns are wet from their being so long exposed to the rain &c.

Wet powder horns and abundant "flees" make lives miserable for the Corps and of course the rain never lets up. One wonders how they find enough dry wood to stay warm.

December 25th Wednesday 1805

[Clark]       at day light this morning we we[re] awoke by the discharge of the fire arm of all our party & a Selute, Shoute and a Song which the whole party joined in under our windows, after which they retired to their rooms were Chearfull all the morning—    after brackfast we divided our Tobacco which amounted to 12 carrots one half of which we gave to the men of the party who used tobacco, and to those who doe not use it we make a present of a handkerchief, The Indians leave us in the evening all the party Snugly fixed in their huts—    I recved a presnt of Capt L. of a fleece hosrie Shirt Draws and Socks—, a pr. mockersons of Whitehouse a Small Indian basket of Gutherich, two Dozen white weazils tails of the Indian woman, & Some black root of the Indians before their departure—    Drewyer informs me that he Saw a Snake pass across the parth to day.    The day proved Showerey wet and disagreeable.

  we would have Spent this day the nativity of Christ in feasting, had we any thing either to raise our Sperits or even gratify our appetites, our Diner concisted of pore Elk, So much Spoiled that we eate it thro' mear necessity, Some Spoiled pounded fish and a fiew roots.

It would be fun to know where Lewis had kept all of the woolens he gave Clark as a Christmas present. A most remarkable gift.  While they're finally in their snug winter quarters, they're certainly not in very good shape as far as food and smokes.  Just what Sacajawea thought Clark would do with the white weasels' tails is also unknown, maybe a form of wampum.  Not the greatest Christmas but at last they're dry and fairly warm.

December 24th Tuesday 1805

[Clark]  hard rain at Different times last night and all this day without intermition.    men all employd in finishing their huts and moveing into them.

Cuscalah theIndian who had treated me So politely when I was at the Clâtsops village, come up in a Canoe with his young brother & 2 Squars he laid before Capt Lewis and my Self each a mat and a parcel of roots—Some time in the evening two files was demanded for the presents of mats and roots, as we had no files to part with, we each rturned the present which we had received, which displeased Cuscalah a little.    he then offered a woman to each of us which we also declined axcepting of, which displeased the whole party verry much—    the female part appeared to be highly disgusted at our refuseing to axcept of their favours &c.

our Store of Meat entirely Spoiled, we are obliged to make use of it as we have nothing else except a little pounded fish, the remains of what we purchased near the great falls of the Columbia, and which we have ever found to be a convenient resort, and a portable method of curing fish

Gee, and to think that Clark thought the Indians hard bargainers.  Files must be right up there with blue and white beads. Anyway, Christmas eve finds our group with little to eat except tainted meat and pounded fish that we already know was spoiled by being wet so much.  Doesn't look too good for a big Christmas dinner.

December 23rd. Monday 1805

[Clark]     Rained without intermition all the last night and to day with Thunder and Hail the fore and after part of this day    Capt Lewis and my Self move into our hut to day unfinished—    two Canoes with Indians of the Clât Sop nation Came up to day. I purcahsed 3 mats and bags all neetly made of flags and rushes, those bags are nearly Square of different size's open on one Side, I also purchasd a panthor Skin 7½ feet long including the tail, all of which I gave 6 Small fish hooks, a Small worn out file & Some pounded fish which we Could not use as it was So long wet that it was Soft and molded, the Indians of this neighbourhood prize the pound'd fish verry highly, I have not observed this method of Secureing fish on any other part of the Columbian waters then that about the Great falls.    I gave a 2d Chief a String of wampom, and Sent a little pounded fish to Cus-ca-lah who was Sick in the village & could not come to See us.

Lewis and Clark move into the new quarters--unfinished.  Their almost daily commerce with the natives nets them interesting things in exchange for some fish hooks and moldy pounded fish.  For once Clark didn't complain about the close trading practices of these tribesmen, accustomed to tradling with ships from both the US and Britian. Perhaps it's just the nearness of the yuletide.

December 22nd Sunday 1805

[Clark]   rained Continued all the last night and to day without much intermition, men employd doeing what they can at the houses. Drewyer Set out up the Creek to Set his traps for beaver, Sergt. ordway, Gibson & my Servent Sick, Several men Complain of biles and bruses of differant kinds.

We discover that part of our last Supply of meat is Spoiling from the womph [warmth] of the weather not withstanding a constant Smoke kept under it day and night.

Clark discovers smoke alone won't cure elk quarters. Guess they need some rock salt to help. The shortness of his post tells a good deal about general conditions of the Group.

December 21st Saturday 1805

[Clark]  rain as usial last night and all day to day moderately.    we Continued at the Cabins dobbing & Shinking of them, fall Several trees which would not Split into punchins—    the Indians were detected in Stealing a Spoon & a Bone, and left us, our Sackey Commy out    Send 2 men to gather Some at the ocian, Saw Elk Sign.

Evidently, most of cabins are nearly complete with rooves and doors, since chinking is usually the final building stage.

Chinking log cabins surely goes back as far as log cabins do.  Since perfectly straight cabin sized trees are impossible to find, there are always openings between the logs as they are put up.  Chinking can be anything from mud to V shaped wooden pieces nailed in the cracks.  I grew up in a log house with a frame addition. The logs of that portion had been squared with broad axes prior to putting them in place,  but it still needed chinking. In this case the chinking was like brick mortar or masonary that had horse hair (mane or tail) mixed in. Since the wet mortar wouldn't bond well to the logs, square spikes had been driven through the wet mortar to aid keeping it in place.   Re-chinking was just part of regular maintenance for older log houses.

December 20th Friday 1805

[Clark]   Some rain and hail last night and the rained Continued untill 10 oClock a,m, Men all employd in Carrying punchens or boads & Covering the houses, 4 of which were Covered to day, the after part of the day Cloudy with Several Showers of rain—    3 Indians arrive in a Canoe.    they brought with them mats, roots & Sackacome [NB: Sac à Commis] berries to Sell for which they asked Such high prices that we did not purchase any of them.    Those people ask generally double and tribble the value of what they have to Sell, and never take less than the real value of the article in Such things as is calculated to do them Service. Such as Blue & white beeds, with which they trade with the naivs above; files which they make use of to Sharpen their tools, fish hooks of different Sises and tobacco—    Tobacco and blue beeds they do prefur to every thing.

With four more of their houses covered, looks like Christmas may find them all under  rooves and none to soon.  Clark continues his bargaining, or non-bargaining, with the natives.  Too bad they couldn't re-plenish their stocks of beads and tobacco, they could live in comparitive luxury.

December 19th Thursday 1805

[Clark]   Some rain with intervales of fair weather last night, this morning Clear & the wind from the S, W.    we dispatched Sjt. Pryor with 8 men in 2 Canoes across Meriwethers Bay for the boards of an old Indian house which is vacant, the residue of the men at work at their huts—    the after part of the Day Cloudy with Hail and rain, Serjt. Pryor & party returned in the evening with a load of old boards which was found to be verry indifferent

2 Indians Cam and Stayed a Short time to day

Anything to aid the building  of Fort Clatsop, including scavenged even "verry indifferent" native house boards. Must look  like a long winter ahead.

December 18th Wednesday 1805

[Clark]     rained and Snowd alternetly all the last night, and Spurts of Snow and Hail Continued untill 12 oClock, which has chilled the air which is Cool and disagreeable, the wind hard & unsettled—    The men being thinly Dressed and mockersons without Soks is the reason that but little can be done at the Houses to day—    at 12 the Hail & Snow Seased, and rain Suckceeded for the latter part of the day

Extreme weather forces a day of scant progress and also causes a short post by Clark. The thought of getting around in the snow with mocassins and no socks seems to tell it all.

December 17th Tuesday 1805

[Clark]   Some rain last night and a continuation of it this morning.    all the men at work about the houses, Some Chiking, Dobbing Cutting out dores &c. &c. The 7 men left to bring in the Elk arrived and informed that they Could not find the meat that the party who Stayed out all night had left—    the forepart of this day rained hailed and blew hard, the after part is fair and Cool—    a Mountain which is S. [blank]° E. about 10 mile distant has got Snow on its top which is ruged and uneavin

Cause a Small fire & Smoke to be made under the meat which is hung up in Small peaces:    The trees which our men have fallen latterly Split verry badly into boards.    The most of our Stores are wet.    our Leather Lodge has become So rotten that the Smallest thing tares it into holes and it is now Scrcely Sufficent to keep off the rain off a Spot Sufficiently large for our bead.

More elk meat disappears but they're hard at work putting finishing touches on their cabins, and preserving the meat they have.  Sounds like they're very much in need of more substantial shelter.  The snowy mountain is probably Saddle Moutian in Clatsop County Oregon. No explanations as to why the last trees cut are hard to split into boards, when they were much praised earlier.

December 16th Monday 1805

[Clark]    I as also the party with me experienced a most dreadfull night rain and wet without any Couvering, indeed we Set up the greater part of the Night, when we lay down the water Soon Came under us and obliged us to rise.    the five men who Stayed out all night joind me this morning wet and Cold, haveing Stayed out without fire or Shelter and the rain poreing down upon them all night    their appearance was truly distressing—    they had left all their loads near the place they Spent the night—    I dispatched 12 men for 2 Elk which was reather below on the opposit Side of the Creak, with directions to meet me at the 2d bend in the Creek below, had all the meat which had been brought in yesterday put into 2 Canoes and proceeded down to the 2d bend where I met the 12 men with the 2 Elk, dispatchd 6 men with one of those who Staid out last night for the meet left in the woods & the remainder an elk at Some distance and proceeded on my Self with 3 Canoes to the fort.    wind violent from the S E trees falling, rian and hail, we with Some risque proceeded on thro the high waves in the river, a tempestious disagreeable day.

  I found 3 indians at our Camp, they brought fish to Sell which were pore & not fit for use, had the meet house coverd and the meat all hung up, Several men complain of haveing hurt themselves heavy loads of meat.

The weather never seems to change and back packing elk quarters isn't easy in the best of conditions.  Clark really tells it like it is, lying out all night in the rain with no fire. They now have a covered room in Fort Clatsop to hang the meat in and soon will all be under shelter at long last.

December 15th Sunday 1805

[Clark]  I Set out early with 16 men and 3 canoes for the Elk, proceed up the River three miles and thence up a large Creek from the right about 3 miles the hite of the tide water drew up the Canoes and all hands went out in three different parties and brought in to the Canoe each Man a quarter of Elk, I Sent them out for a Second load and had Some of the first Cooked against their return, after eateing a harty diner dispatched the party for a third and last load, about half the men missed their way and did not get to the Canoes untill after Dark, and Serjt. Ordway Colter, Colins Whitehouse & McNeal Staid out all night without fire and in the rain—    Cloudy all day    Some rain in the evening.

Just another rainy day at Fort Clatsop.  Clark assists in getting the 17 elk carcasses transported and cooks up a hearty meal for the crew.  Certainly laying out all night must have been an ordeal, but our Group seems to carry on in spite of what the December coastal weather can offer.

December 14th Saturday 1805

Clark] The Day Cloudy and rained moderately all day    we finish the log work of our building, the Indians leae us to day after Selling a Small Sea otter Skin and a roab, dispatch 4 men to the Elk out in the woods with derections to delay untill the party  goes up tomorrow.    all employd in finishing a house to put meat into.    all our last Supply of Elk has Spoiled in the repeeted rains which has been fallen ever Since our arrival at this place, and for a long time before, Scerce one man in Camp Can bost of being one day dry Since we landed at this point, the Sick getting better, my man York Sick with Cholick & gripeing

In the elapsed time of three or four days the Party has buildings ready to move into and many of them feeling sick with colds as well.  They're truly and amazing group when it comes to swinging axes.  Must have seemed  delightful to move into shelter.

December 13th Friday 1805

[Clark]   The Clatsops leave us to day after a brackfast on Elk which they appeared to be very fond of before they left us they Sold me two robes of the Skins of a Small animal about the Size of a Cat, and to Captain Lewis 2 Cat or Loucirva Skins for the purpose of makeing a Coat.    Drewyer & Shannon returned from hunting, haveing killed 18 Elk & left them boochered in the woods near the right fork of the river about 6 miles above this place—    in the evining 3 Indians came in a Canoe, and offered to us for Sale roots & 2 Sea otter Skins, neither of which we Could purchase this evening.    Some Showers of rain last night, and to day Several verry hard Showers—    we Continue to put up the Streight butifull balsom pine on our houses—and we are much pleased to find that the timber Splits most butifully and to the width of 2 feet or more.

The elk hunters really deliver and Clark indulges himself with what is probably Oregon Bobcat skins. There's still some argument about what tree species the group are falling and spliting, but the general consensus points to Douglas Fir.  They continue to show their skills as axemen, much as they did in building canoes back on the Clearwater and will have everyone sheltered in unbelievable time.

December 12th Thursday 1805

[Clark]     All hands that are well employ'd in Cutting logs and raising our winter Cabins, detached two men to Split boards—    Some rain at intervales all last night and to day—    The flees were So troublesom last night that I made but a broken nights rest, we find great dificuelty in getting those trouble insects out of our robes and blankets—    in the evening two Canoes of Clât Sops Visit us they brought with them Wap pa to, a black Swet root they Call Sha-na toe qua, and a Small Sea Otter Skin, all of which we purchased for a fiew fishing hooks and a Small Sack of Indian tobacco which was given by the Snake Inds.

  Those Indians appear well disposed    we gave a Medal to the principal Chief named Con-ny-au or Com mo-wol and treated those with him with as much attention as we could—    I can readily discover that they are Close deelers, & Stickle for a verry little, never close a bargin except they think they have the advantage    Value Blue beeds highly, white they also prise but no other Colour do they Value in the least—    the Wap pa to they Sell high, this root the purchase at a high price from the nativs above.

Seems that besides the rain, the "flees" will always be with them. Clark takes time to deal with the hard bargaining Clatsops.  The chief receiving the medal was Coboway, a Clatsop leader.  When the party vacated Fort Clatsop the following spring, the two captains gave the Fort to the chief and he occupied it for several years.

December 11, Wednesday 1805

[Clark]   rained all the last night moderately    we are all employed putting up huts or Cabins for our winters quarters.    Sergeant Pryor unwell from a dislocation of his Sholder, Gibson with the disentary, Jo. Fields with biles on his legs, & Werner with a Strained Knee.    The rained Continued moderately all day.

With the steady rain one can easily discern why today's posts were so short.  Everyone is swinginmg an axe to put rooves over their near drowned selves.  How any of  them could be well enough to work is a silent tribute to the hardiness of our nation's ancestors.

December 10, Tuesday 1805

[Clark]   a Cloudy rainey morning    verry early I rose and walked on the Shore of the Sea coast and picked up Several Curious Shells.    I Saw Indians walking up and down the beech which I did not at first understand the Cause of, one man came to where I was and told me that he was in Serch of fish which is frequently thrown up on Shore and left by the tide, and told me [NB: in English] the "Sturgion was verry good" and that the water when it retired left fish which they eate    this was Conclusive evedance to me that this Small band depended in Some Measure for their winters Subsistance on the fish which is thrown on Shore and left by the tide—    after amuseing my Self for about an hour on the edge of the rageing Seas I returned to the houses, one of the Indians pointed to a flock of Brant Sitting in the creek at Short distance below and requested me to Shute one, I walked down with my Small rifle and killed two at about 40 yds distance, on my return to the houses two Small ducks Set at about 30 Steps from me    the Indians pointed at the ducks they were near together, I Shot at the ducks and accidently Shot the head of one off, this Duck and brant was Carried to the house and every man Came around examined the Duck looked at the gun the Size of the ball which was 100 to the pound and Said in their own language Clouch Musket, [NB: English word Musket] wake, com ma-tax Musket which is, a good Musket do not under Stand this kind of Musket &c.  I entered the Same house I Slept in, they imediately Set before me their best roots, fish and Surup—, I attempted to purchase a Small Sea otter Skin for read beeds which I had in my pockets, they would not trade for those beeds not priseing any other Colour than Blue or White, I purchased a little of the berry bread and a fiew of their roots for which I gave Small fish hooks, which they appeared fond of—    I then Set out on my return by the Same rout I had Come out accompanied by Cus-ka lah and his brother as far as the [Second] 3d Creek, for the purpose of Setting me across, from which place they returned, and I proceeded on through a heavy rain to the Camp at our intended fort, Saw a bears track & the tracks of 2 Elk in the thick woods—    found Capt Lewis with all the men out Cutting down trees for our huts &c.    in my absence the Men brought in the Six Elk which was killed Several days ago—.    4 men Complaining of violent Coalds.    three Indians in a Canoe Came up from the Clat Sop Village yesterday and returned to day. The Sea Coast is about 7 miles distant Nearly West about 5 miles of the distance through a thick wood with reveens hills and Swamps the land, rich black moald 2 miles in a open wavering Sandy prarie, ridge runing parrelal to the river, Covered with Green Grass.

The "flees" evidently didn't downgrade Clark's markmanship any and the natives were really impressed. They now have a blazed trail to the ocean and perhaps we'll soon see how the salt-making goes. Most of the group practices their astonishing skill with axes, and the cabins and stockade are going up.  The most impressive thing about this post is the fact that only four men are complaining of severe colds.

December 9th Monday 1805

[Clark]    rained all the last night    we are all wet, I directed 2 hunters Drewyer & Shannon to go in pursute of the Elk, with the other 3 men I deturmined to proceed on to the Ocian, & Set out on a Westerley direction Crossed 3 Slashes and arived at a Creek which I could not Cross as it was deep and no wood to make a raft, I proceeded down this Creek a Short distance and found that I was in a fork of the Creek, I then returned to [NB?: the] raft on which we had Crossed the day [NB?: before]. crossed and kept down about one mile and met 3 Indians loaded with fresh Salmon which they had Giged in the Creek I crossed yesterday in the hills, those indians made Signs that they had a town on the Seacoast at no great distance, and envited me to go to their town which envitation I axcepted and accompand. them, they had a Canoe hid in the Creek which I had just before rafted which I had not observed, we crossed in this little Canoe just large enough to carry 3 men an their loads after Crossing 2 of the Indians took the Canoe on theire Sholders and Carried it across to the other Creek about ¼ of a mile, we Crossed the 2d Creek and proceeded on to the mouth of the Creek which makes a great bend above the mouth of this Creek or to the S. is 3 houses and about 12 families of the Clat Sop Nation, we cross to those houses, which were built on the S. exposur of the hill, Sunk into the ground about 4 feet the walls roof & gable ends are of Split pine boards, the dores Small with a ladder to decend to the iner part of the house, the fires are 2 in the middle of the house their beads ar all around raised about 2½ feet from the bottom flore all covered with mats and under those beads was Stored their bags baskets and useless mats, those people treated me with extrodeanary friendship, one man attached himself to me as Soon as I entered the hut, Spred down new mats for me to Set on, gave me fish berries rutes &c. on Small neet platteers of rushes to eate which was repeated, all the Men of the other houses Came and Smoked with me    Those people appeared much neeter in their diat than Indians are Comonly, and frequently wash theer faces and hands—    in the eveng an old woman presented a bowl made of a light Coloured horn a kind of Surup made of Dried berries which is common to this Countrey which the natives Call Shele wele [NB: Shel-well]   this Surup I though was pleasent, they Gave me Cockle Shells  to eate a kind of Seuip [NB: Soup] made of bread of the Shele well barries mixed with roots in which they presented in neet trenchers made of wood.    a flock of Brant lit in the Creek which was 70 yds wide    I took up my Small rifle and Shot one which astonished those people verry much, they plunged into the Creek and brought the brant on Shore— in the evening it began to rain and Continud accompanied with a Violent wind from the S. W. untill 10 oClock P. M.    those people have a Singular game which they are verry fond of and is performed with Something [NB: a piece of bone] about the Size of a large been [NB: bean] which they pass from, one hand into the other with great dexterity dureing which time they Sing, and ocasionally, hold out their hands for those who Chuse to risque their property to guess which hand the been is in—;   the individual who has the been is a banker & opposed to all in the room. on this game they risque their beeds & others part of their most valuable effects—    this amusement has occupied about 3 hours of this evening, Several of the lodge in which I am in have lost all the beeds which they had about them—    they have one other game which a man attempted to Show me, I do not properly understand it, they make use of maney peces about the Shape and size of Backgammon Pices [NB: Men] which they role [NB: on the floor] through between two pins Stuck up at certain distancies &c.—    when I was Disposed to go to Sleep the man who' had been most attentive named Cus-ka-lah   produced 2 new mats and Spred them near the fire, and derected his wife to go to his bead which was the Signal for all to retire which they did emediately.    I had not been long on my mats before I was attacked most violently by the flees and they kept up a close Siege dureing the night

Clark continues his trip to the Pacific to set up salt manufacture and runs into hospitable Clatsops.  They show off their skill games and Clark shows off his markmanship skills.  Everything comes off real nice until the "flees" start in on him. He's also must impressed by these natives washing their hands and faces.

December 8th, Sunday 1805

[Clark]  We haveing fixed on this Situation as the one best Calculated for our Winter quarters I deturmin'd to go as direct a Course as I could to the Sea Coast which we Could here roar and appeared to be at no great distance from us, my principal object is to look out a place to make Salt, blaze the road or rout that they men out hunting might find the direction to the fort if they Should get lost in cloudy weather—and See the probibillity of game in that direction, for the Support of the Men, we Shall Send to make Salt, I took with me five men and Set out on a Course S 60 W    proceeded on a dividing ridge through lofty piney land much falling timber.    passed the heads of 2 brooks one of them had wide bottoms which was over flown & we waded to our knees crossed 2 Slashes [NB: Swamps] and arrived at a Creek in a open ridgey prarie covered with Sackacomma [NB: Sac de Commis]    this Creek we were obliged to raft, which is about 60 yards over and runs in a direction to Point adams, we discovered a large gange of Elk in the open lands, and we prosued them through verry bad Slashes and Small ponds about 3 miles, Killed one and camped on a Spot Scercely large enough to lie Clear of the Water.    it is almost incredeable to assurt the bogs which those animals Can pass through, I prosue'd this gang of Elk through bogs which the wate of a man would Shake for ½ an Acre, and maney places I Sunk into the mud and water up to my hips without finding any bottom on the trale of those Elk.    Those bogs are Covered with a kind of moss among' which I observe an ebundance of Cramberries.    in those Slashes Small Knobs are promisquisly Scattered about which are Steep and thickly Covered with pine Common to the Countrey & Lorel.    we made a Camp of the Elk Skin to keep off the rain which Continued to fall, the Small Knob on which we Camped did not afford a Sufficiency of dry wood for our fire, we collected what dry wood we Could and what Sticks we Could Cut down with the Tomahawks, which made us a tolerable fire.

Their camping site was probably near present Seaside, Clatsop county, Oregon.  The elk appear to be in great abundance which must be a comfort to all of them as they don't function very well on dried fish.  I imagine they were all pretty salt hungry since Clark felt procuring some was a very high priority. It will be interesting to hear how this works our.

December 7th Saturday 1805

Clark]   Some rain from 10 to 12 last night, this morning fair, have every thing put on board the Canoes and Set out to the place Capt Lewis had viewed and thought well Situated for winter quarters—    we proceeded on against the tide to a point about [blank] miles    here we met Sergt Pryor and his party returning to the Camp we had left without any meat, the waves verry verry high, as much as our Canoes Could bear rendered it impossible to land for the party, we proceeded on around the point into the bay and landed to take brackfast on 2 Deer which had been killed & hung up, one of which we found    the other had been taken off by [s]ome wild animal probably Panthors or the Wild [cat?] of this Countrey    here all the party of Serjt Pryors joined us except my man york, who had Stoped to rite his load and missed his way, Sergt Pryor informed us that he had found the Elk, which was much further from the bay than he expected, that they missed the way for one day and a half, & when he found the Elk they were mostly Spoiled, and they only brought the Skins of 4 of the Elk    after brakfast I delayed about half an hour before York Came up, and then proceeded around this Bay which I have taken the liberty of calling Meriwethers Bay the Cristian name of Capt. Lewis who no doubt was the 1st white man who ever Surveyed this Bay,  we assended a river which falls in on the South Side of this Bay 3 miles to the first point of high land on the West Side, the place Capt. Lewis had viewed and formed in a thick groth of pine about 200 yards from the river, this situation is on a rise about 30 feet higher than the high tides leavel and thickly Covered with lofty pine.    this is certainly the most eligable Situation for our purposes of any in its neighbourhood.

 

While weather conditions weren't the best, the Party manages to get themselves and their baggage back together on Merriwether's bay.  Actually, this bay was explored earlier by members of Vancouver's expidition in 1792 and was already named after a member of the group, Sir George Young, and still carries that name.  Too bad about the loss of the five elk.  There's been a good many hunters loose elk meat by not getting the hide off and the meat hanging soon enough.  Unlike vension, the heavier hides and larger quarters cause the meat to sour very quickly.  Anyway, at  last the Party has found a suitable place, safe from the pesky tides, to make their winter's camp.

Note:The site of Fort Clatsop, where the party would remain until March 1806, is about five miles southeast of Astoria, Clatsop County, just south of U.S. Highway 101. Remnants of the fort, on the west side of the Lewis and Clark River, were still visible into the early 1870s and it was relocated through archaeological excavations. The site is now a national memorial containing a reconstruction of the fort.

December 6th Friday 1805

[Clark]  The wind blew hard all the last night with a moderate rain, the waves verry high, the wind increased & from the S. W. and the rain Continued all day, about Dark the wind Shifted to the North cleared away and became fair weather.

The high tide of today is 13 inches higher than yesterday, and obliged us to move our Camp which was in a low Situation, on higher ground Smoke exceedingly disagreeable.

There seems to be no way that the Party can get a break in the weather,  I seriously doubt there was any week during their whole trek that was as miserable for them as their experiences here at the mouth of the Columbia.  It just doesn't get much worse than trying to sleep in wet leather clothes underneath leaky covers.

December 5th Thursday 1805

[Clark]   Some hard Showers of rain last night, this morning Cloudy and drisley at Some little distanc above the isthmus the rain is much harder.    high water to day at 12    this tide is 2 inches higher than that of yesterday.    all our Stores and bedding are again wet by the hard rain of last night. Capt. Lewis's long delay below, has been the Sorce of no little uneasness on my part of his probable Situation and Safty, the repeeted rains and hard winds which blows from the S, W. renders it impossible for me to move with loaded Canoes along an unknown Coast    we are all wet & disagreeable; the party much better of indispositions—.    Capt. Lewis returned with 3 men in the Canoe and informs me that he thinks that a Sufficient number of Elk may be prcured Convenient to a Situation on a Small river which falls into a Small bay a Short distance below, that his party had Killed 6 Elk & 5 Deer in his rout, two men of his party left behind to Secure the Elk

   this was verry Satisfactory information to all the party.    we accordingly deturmined to proceed on to the Situation which Capt. Lewis had Viewed as Soon as the wind and weather Should permit and Comence building huts &c.

Lewis brings back good information on the elk supply and now all they need is some decent weather.  Getting their all their baggage through to Lewis's site will be a struggle, let alone building huts and finding dear and elk enough to support through the winter months.

December 4th Wednesday 1805

[Clark]  Some rain all the last night, this morning it increased with the wind from the S. E.    I Set out Sergiant Pryor and 6 men to the Elk he had killed with directions to Carry the meat to a bay which he informed me was below and as he believed at no great distance from the Elk, and I Should proceed on to that bay as Soon as the wind would lay a little and the tide went out in the evening—    the Smoke is exceedingly disagreeable and painfull to my eyes, my appetite has returned and I feel much better of my late complaint—    a Spring tide to day rose 2 feet higher than Common flood tides and high water at 11 oClock—    Hard wind from the South this evening, rained [hard] moderately all day and the waves too high for me to proceed in Safty to the bay as I intended, in Some part of which I expected would be convenient for us to make winter quarters, the reports of seven huntes agreeing that elke were in great abundance about the Bay below.    no account of Capt. Lewis.    I fear Some accident has taken place in his craft or party

Clark gets closer to a wintering place location, Lewis's whereabouts is unknown, and the wind and rough water further curtail movement.  On a happier note Clark seems to have recovered from his stomach ills and we're sure, he likes the news that Clatsop elk seem to be in generous supply. Of course, there's little relief from the rain.

December 3rd Tuesday 1805

[Clark]     a fair windey morning wind from the East    the men returned with the Elk which revived the Spirits of my party verry much    I am Still unwell and Can't eate even the flesh of the Elk.    an Indian Canoe of 8 Indians Came too, those Inds. are on their way down to the Clât Sops with Wap pa to to barter with that nation, I purchasd. a fiew of those roots for which I gave Small fish hooks, those roots I eate with a little Elks Soupe which I found gave me great relief    I found the roots both nurishing and as a check to my disorder.    The Indians proceeded on down through emence high waves maney times their Canoe was entirely out of Sight before they were ½ a mile distance. Serjt. Pryor & Gibson who went hunting yesterday has not returned untill after night, they informed me that they had killed 6 Elk at a great distance which they left lying, haveing taken out their interals that they had been lost and in their ramble saw a great deel of Elk Sign.    after eateing the marrow out of two Shank bones of an Elk, the Squar choped the bones fine boiled them and extracted a pint of Grease, which is Superior to the tallow of the animal. Some rain this evening

I marked my name on a large pine tree imediately on the isthmus William Clark December 3rd 1805. By Land from the U. States in 1804 & 1805.—

It appears that the Clatsop Indians tale of plentiful elk on their tribal lands are true and no one is happier about this than Clark.  Sacajawea fixes up a special medication and treat for him, the natives give him another example of their seamanship, and of course, the rain continues.

December 2nd Monday 1805

[Clark]  Cloudy with Some rain this morning    I Send out three men to hunt & 2 & my man york in a Canoe up the Ke-ke-mar-que Creek in Serch of fish and fowl—    I feel verry unwell, and have entirely lost my appetite for the Dried pounded fish which is in fact the cause of my disorder at present—    The men are generally Complaining of a lax and gripeing—    In the evening Joseph Field came in with the Marrow bones of a elk which he killed at 6 miles distant, this welcome news to us.    I dispatched Six men in a empty Canoe with Jo:    mediately for the elk which he Said was about 3 miles from the water    this is the first Elk which has been killd. on this Side of the rockey mountains—    Jo Fields givs me an account of a great deel of Elk Sign & Says he Saw 2 Gangs of those Animals in his rout, but it rained So hard that he could not Shoot them—    The party up the Creek returned without any thing and informs me they could not See any fish in the Creek to kill and the fowls were too wild to be killed, this must be owing to their being much hunted and pursued by the Indians in their Canoes.

Elk hunting seems to be looking up a bit, although hunting these wily creatures in the heavy timber would always be a challenge.  The dried salmon has bothered them all, now even Clark has the problems.  It will be interesting to see how they solve the food issue, so stay tuned. 

December 1st Sunday 1805

[Lewis]  Cloudy morning wind from the S. E.    sent out the men to hunt and examin the country, they soon returned all except Drewyer and informed me that the wood was so thick it was almost impenetrable and that there was but little appearance of game; they had seen the track of one deer only and a few small grey squirrels.  these suirrels are about the size of the red squirrel of the lakes and eastern Atlantic States, their bellies are of a redish yellow, or tanners ooze   colour the tale flat and as long as the body eyes black and moderately large back and sides of a greyish brown     the brier  with a brown bark and three laves which put forth at the extremety of the twigs like the leaves of the blackbury brier, tho' is a kind of shrub and rises sometimes to the hight of 10 fe[et]    the green brier yet in leaf;   the ash with a remarkable large leaf;   the large black alder.     the large elder with skey blue buries.      the broad leave shrub   which grows something like the quill wood but has no joints, the leaf broad and deeply indented    the bark p[e]als hangs on the stem and is of a yelowish brown [yellow] colour.    the seven bark is also found here as is the common low cramburry—there is a wild crab apple which the natives eat    this growth differs but little in appearance from that of the wild crab of the Atlantic States.    but the fruit consists of little oval burries which grow in clusters at the extremities of the twigs like the black haws.    the fruit is of a brown colour, oval form and about double as large as the black haw; the rind is smoth and tough somewhat hard; the seed is like that of the wild crab and nearly as large; the pulp is soft of a pale yellow coulour; and when the fruit has been touched by the frost is not unpleasant, being an agreeable assed.    the tree which bears a red burry in clusters of a round form and size of a red haw.   the leaf like that of the small magnolia, and brark smoth and of a brickdust red coulour    it appears to be of the evergreen kind.—    half after one oclock Drewyer not yet arrived.    heard him shoot 5 times just above us and am in hopes he has fallen in with a gang of elk.—

Lewis has a journal entry for a change.  He's exploring the downriver possibilities for the group and especially looking for elk.  Not only are they all short on meat but their leather clothes are well worn and elk hides are the best for wear.  He also writes good descriptions of numberous shrubs and bushes that provide fruit including the Oregon crabapple of which he gives an excellent description.  We'll hope that Drewer has indeed located a gang of elk.