Joan's Lewis & Clark Geek Page

June 30 Monday, 1806

[Lewis] We dispatched Drewyer and J. Fields early this morning to hunt on the road and indeavour to obtain some meat for us.    just as we had prepared to set out at an early hour a deer came in to lick at these springs and one of our hunters killed it; this secured us our dinners, and we proceeded down the creek sometimes in the bottoms and at other times on the top or along the steep sides of the ridge to the N. of the Creek.    at one mile from the springs we passed a stout branch of the creek on the north side and at noon having travelled 13 ms. we arrived at the entrance of a second Northen branch of the creek  where we had nooned it on the 12th of Septr. last.    here we halted, dined and graized our horses.    while here Sheilds took a small tern  and killed a deer.    at this place a road turns off to the wright which the indians informed us leads to Clarks river  some distance below where there is a fine extensive vally in which the Shalees or Ootslashshoots sometimes reside.    in descending the creek this morning on the steep side of a high hill my horse sliped and both his hinder feet out of the road and fell, I also fell off backwards and slid near 40 feet down the hill before I could stop myself such was the steepness of the declivity; the horse was near falling on me in the first instance but fortunately recovers and we both escaped unhirt. I saw a small grey squirrel  today much like those of the Pacific coast only that the belly of this was white. I also met with the plant in blume which is sometimes called the lady's slipper or mockerson flower.     it is in shape and appearance like ours only that the corolla is white, marked with small veigns of pale red longitudinally on the inner side.    after dinner we resumed our march. soon after seting out Sheilds killed another deer and in the course of the evening we picked up three others which Drewyer had killed along the road making a total of 6 today. Deer are very abundant in the neighborhood of travellers rest of both speceis,  also some bighorns  and Elk.    a little before sunset we arrived at our old encampment on the south side of the creek a little above it's entrance into Clark's river.   here we encamped with a view to remain two days in order to rest ourselves and horses & make our final arrangements for seperation.    we came 19 ms. after dinner the road being much better than it has been since we entered the mountains    we found no appearance of the Ootslashshoots having been here lately.    the indians express much concern for them and apprehend that the Minnetares of fort de Prarie have distroyed them in the course of the last winter and spring, and mention the tracks of the bearfoot Indians which we saw yesterday as an evidence of their being much distressed.—    our horses have stood the journey supprisingly well, most of them are yet in fine order, and only want a few days rest to restore them perfectly.—

Hunting certainly is looking up, after their long lean spell of scarce game, reaching back to the Pacific coast. Both men and horses has a much easier trip than experienced last fall, when  they were going westward.

June 29th Sunday, 1806

[Clark] We colected our horses and Set out haveing previously dispatched Drewyer & R. Field to the Warm Springs to hunt.    we prosued the hights of the ridge on which we have been passing for several days; it termonated at the distancen of 5 M. from our encampment, and we decended to & passed the main branch of Kooskooke 1½ Ms. above the enterance of Glade Creek which falls in on the N. E. Side.    we bid adew to the Snow.    near the River we found a Deer which the hunters had killed and left us.    this was a fortunate Supply as all our bears oil was now exhosted, and we were reduced to our roots alone without Salt.    the river is 30 yds wide and runs with great velossity.    the bead as all the Mountain streams is composed of Smooth Stone.    beyond this river we assended a Steep Mountain about 2 Miles to it's Sumit where we found the old road which we had passed on as we went out.    comeing in on our right, the road was now much plainer and much beaten.    at noon we arived at the quawmash flatts on Vally Creek and halted to graize our horses and dined haveing traveled 12 Miles    here is a pretty little plain of about 50 acres plentifully Stocked with quawmash and from appearance this forms one of the principal Stages of the indians who pass the mountains on this road.    we found that one of our pack horss with his load and one of Capt. L.s. horses were missing    we dispatched Jo. Field & Colter in serch of the lost horse's.    after dinner we continued our march 7 ms further to the worm Springs where we arrived early in the evening, and Sent out Several hunters, who as well as R. Field & Drewyer returned unsuksessfull; late in the evening Jo. Field & Colter joined us with the lost horses and brought with them a Deer which J. F. had killed, this furnished us with a Supper.

Those Worm or Hot Springs are Situated at the base of a a hill of no considerable hight, on the N. Side and near the bank of travellers rest Creek which is at that place about 10 yds wide.    these Springs issue from the bottom and through the interstices of a grey freestone rock, the rock rises in irregular masy clifts in a circular range, arround the Springs on their lower Side.    imediately above the Springs on the Creek there is a handsom little quawmash plain of about 10 acres.    the principal Spring is about the temperature of the Warmest baths used at the Hot Springs in Virginia.    in this bath which had been prepared by the Indians by stopping the river with Stone and mud, I bathed and remained in 10 minits it was with dificuelty I could remain this long and it causd a profuse swet. two other bold Springs adjacent to this are much warmer, their heat being so great as to make the hand of a person Smart extreemly when immerced.    we think the temperature of those Springs about the Same as that of the hotest of the hot Springs of Virginia.    both the Men and the indians amused themselves with the use of the bath this evening. I observe after the indians remaining in the hot bath as long as they could bear it run and plunge themselves into the Creek the water of which is now as Cold as ice Can make it; after remaining here a fiew minits they return again to the worm bath repeeting this transision Several times but always ending with the worm bath. Saw the tracks of 2 bearfooted indians—.

Well, they're over the top and down a ways and apparently survived the great climb in good shape for both men and their mounts. Even the hunters had pretty good luck for a change.

June 28th 1806

[Lewis] This morning we collected our horses and set out as usual after an early breakfast.    several of our horses had straggled to a considersble distance in surch of food but we were fortunate enough to find them in good time they look extreemly gant this morning, however the indians informed us that at noon we would arrive at a place where there was good food for them.    we continued our rout along the dividing ridge passing one very deep hollow and at the distance of six miles passed our encampment of the [16] [NB: 15th]   of September last, one and a half miles further we passed the road which leads by the fishery falling in on the wright immediately on the dividing ridge.     about eleven O'clock we arrived at an untimbered side of a mountain with a Southern aspect just above the fishery    here we found an abundance of grass for our horses as the Indians had informed us.    as our horses were very hungary and much fatiegued and from information no other place where we could obtain grass for them within the reach of this evening's travel we determined to remain at this place all night having come 13 miles only.   the water was distant from our encampment we therefore melted snow and used the water principally.    the whole of the rout of this day was over deep snows.    we find the traveling on the snow not worse than without it, as the easy passage it gives us over rocks and fallen timber fully compensate for the inconvenience of sliping, certain it is that we travel considerably faster on the snow than without it.    the snow sinks from 2 to 3 inches with a hors, is coarse and firm and seems to be formed of the larger and more dense particles of the snow; the surface of the snow is reather harder in the morning than after the sun shines on it a few hours, but it is not in that situation so dense as to prevent the horse from obtaining good foothold.    we killed a small black pheasant; this bird is generally found in the snowey region of the mountains and feeds on the leaves of the pine and fir.   there is a speceis of small whortleburry  common to the hights of the mountains, and a speceis of grass with a broad succulent leaf which looks not unlike a flag;   of the latter the horses are very fond, but as yet it is generally under the snow or mearly making it's appearance as it confined to the upper parts of the highest mountains.—

The Captains have to be much pleased by their progress up the Lolo Trail. The packed snow surface was called crust where I grew up.  The thawing sun would make it soft by afternoon, but with the night's  freezing, it would be hard enough to drive a team of horses and a sled full with hay any place one wished to go. This saved a lot of road breaking when the snow was deep enough to cover the third wire of fences.

 

Thanks to their guides, they've found a bare patch of mountains side where their horses can fill up.

June 27th Friday, 1806

[Clark]   We collected our horses early and Set out.    the road Still Continue on the hights of the Dividing ridge on which we had traveled yesterday for 9 Ms. or to our encampment of the 16th Septr. last.   about 1 m. Short of the encampment we halted by the request of the Guides a fiew minits on an ellevated point and Smoked a pipe    on this eminance the nativs have raised a conic mound of Stons of 6 or 8 feet high and erected a pine pole of 15 feet long.    from hence they informed us that when passing over with their families some of the men were usually Sent on foot by the fishery at the enterance of Colt Creek in order to take fish and again meet the party at the quawmash glade on the head of Kooskoske river.    from this place we had an extencive view of these Stupendeous Mountains principally Covered with Snow like that on which we Stood; we were entirely Serounded by those mountains from which to one unacquainted with them it would have Seemed impossible ever to have escaped, in short without the assistance of our guides, I doubt much whether we who had once passed them could find our way to Travellers rest in their present Situation for the marked trees on which we had placed Considerable reliance are much fewer and more difficuelt to find than we had apprehended.    those indians are most admireable pilots; we find the road wherever the Snow has disappeared tho' it be only fora fiew paces.    after haveing Smoked the pipe and Contemplating this Scene Sufficient to have dampened the Spirits of any except Such hardy travellers as we have become, we continued our march and at the dist. of 3 m. decended a Steep mountain and passed two Small branches of the Chopunnish river just above their fok, and again assend the ridge on which we passed.    at the distance of 7 m. arived at our Encampment of 16th Septr. last    passed 3 Small branches    passed on a dividing ridge rugid and we arived at a Situation very Similar to our Situation of last night tho' the ridge was Somewhat higher and the Snow had not been So long disolved of course there was but little grass.    here we Encamped for the night haveing traveled 28 Ms. over these mountains without releiveing the horses from their packs or their haveing any food.    the Indians inform us that there is an abundance of the Mountain Sheep, or what they Call white Buffalow on those Mountains.    we Saw 3 black tail or mule deer this evening but were unable to get a Shoot at them.    we also Saw Several tracks of those animals in the snow.    our Meat being exhosted we [send 2] issued a point of Bears Oil to a mess which with their boiled roots made an agreeable dish. Jo. Potts leg which had been much Swelled and inflaimed for several days is much better this evening and givs him but little pain. we applied the poundd root & leaves of wild ginger from which he found great relief. Near our encampment we saw great numbers of the Yellow lilly with reflected petals in blume; this plant was just as foward here at this time as it was in the plains on the 10th of May. My head has not pained me so much to day as yesterday and last night.

They're making great progress over the snowy trail. Clark again confirms the knowledge of their Nez Perce guides.

June 26th Thursday, 1806

[Lewis] This morning we collected our horses and set out after an early breakfast or at 6 A. M.    we passed by the same rout we had travelled on the 17th inst. to our deposit on the top of the snowey mountain to the N. E. of hungary Creek.   here we neceessarily halted about 2 hours to arrange our baggage and prepare our loads.    we cooked and made a haisty meal of boiled venison and mush of cows.    the snow has subsided near four feet since the 17th inst.    we now measured it accurately and found from a mark which we had made on a tree when we were last here on the 17th that it was then 10 feet 10 inches which appeared to be about the common debth though it is deeper still in some places.    it is now generally about 7 feet.   on our way up this mountain about the border of the snowey region we killed 2 of the small black pheasant  and a female of the large dommanicker or speckled pheasant,  the former have 16 fathers in their tail and the latter 20 while the common pheasant   have only 18.    the indians informed us that neither of these speceis drumed; they appear to be very silent birds for I never heared either of them make a noise in any situation.    the indians haistened to be off and informed us that it was a considerable distance to the place which they wished to reach this evening where there was grass for our horses.    accordingly we set out with our guides who lead us over and along the steep sides of tremendious mountains entirely covered with snow except about the roots of the trees where the snow had sometimes melted and exposed a few square feet of the earth.    we ascended and decended severall lofty and steep hights but keeping on the dividing ridge between the Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers we passed no stream of water.    late in the evening much to the satisfaction of ourselves and the comfort of our horses we arrived at the desired spot and encamped on the steep side of a mountain convenient to a good spring.    [NB: having passed a few miles our camp of 18 Sepr 1805]    here we found an abundance of fine grass for our horses. this situation was the side of an untimbered mountain with a fair southern aspect where the snows from appearance had been desolved about 10 days.    the grass was young and tender of course and had much the appearance of the greenswoard.     there is a great abundance of a speceis of bear-grass   which grows on every part of these mountains it's growth is luxouriant and continues green all winter but the horses will not eat it.    soon after we had encamped we were overtaken by a Chopunnish man who had pursued us with a view to accompany me to the falls of the Missouri.    we were now informed that the two young men whom we met on the 21st and detained several days are going on a party of pleasure mearly to the Oote-lash-shoots or as they call them Sha-lees   a band of the Tush-she-pah nation who reside on Clark's river in the neighbourhood of traveller's rest.    one of our guides lost 2 of his horses, which he returned in surch of; he found them and rejoined us a little before dark.—

This post clearly demonstrates the advantage of having native guides.  Among all the snowy peaks, there's a south facing slope that's bare of trees, with grass for the horses.

June 25th Wednesday, 1806

[Clark]   last evening the indians entertained us with Setting the fir trees on fire.    they have a great number of dry limbs near their bodies which when Set on fire create a very Sudden and emmence blaize from bottom to top of those tail trees.    they are a boutifull object in this Situation at night.    this exhibition remide me of a display of firewoks.    the nativs told us that their object in Setting those trees on fire was to bring fair weather for our journey—. We Collected our horses and Set out at an early hour this morning.    one of our guides Complained of being unwell, a Symptom which I did not much like as such complaints with an indian is generally the prelude to his abandoning any enterprize with which he is not well pleased.    we left 4 of those indians at our encampment they promised to pursue us in a fiew hours.    at 11 A. M. we arrived at the branch of hungary Creek where we found Jo. & R. Fields.    they had not killed anything.    here we halted and dined and our guides overtook us.    at this place the squaw Collected a parcel of roots of which the Shoshones Eat.    it is a Small knob root a good deel in flavour and Consistency like the Jerusolem artichoke.    it has two Small Smooth oval leaves placed opposit on either Side of the peduncle just above the root.    the scope is only about 4 inches long is round and Smooth.    the roots of this plant forms one of the Colection of roots which D—. took from the Shoshones last fall on the head of Jefferson river.    after dinner we continued our rout to hungary creek and encamped about one and a half miles below our Encampment of the 16th inst:— The indians all continue with us and I beleive are disposed to be faithfull to their engagements. Capt. L. gave the Sick indian a Small buffalow robe which he brought from the Missouri, this indian having no other Covering except his mockersons and a dressed Elk Skin without the hair—. Drewyer & Shields were sent on this morning to hungary Creek in serch of their horses which they fortunately recovered.—.    came [blank] miles to daye. —

Clark's mentioning "the squaw" or Sacagawea's pointing out a beneficial root is the only such reference in the journals.  The plant is western spring beauty, western spring beauty, Claytonia lanceolata Pursh and is among the first plants to bloom in spring. The Party and their guides seem to be faring fairly well so far, with the exception of one of the guides.

June 24th Tuesday, 1806

[Clark] We collected our horses early this morning and Set out accompanied by our 3 guides. Colter joined us this morning haveing killed a Bear, which from his discription of it's poverty and distance we did not think proper to send after. We nooned it as usial at Collins's Creek where we found Frazier, solus; the other four men haveing gorn in pursute of the two indians who had Set out from Collin's Creek two hours before Fraziers arrival Wiser arrived there.    after dinner we Continued our rout to fish Creek a branch of Collin's creek where we had lain the 15th  18th 19th & 20th inst.    here we found Sargt. Gass, Wiser and the two indian men whome they had prevaild on to remain at that place untill our arival; Jos. & R. Field had killed one Small deer only while they lay at Collins creek, and of this they had been liberal to the indians insomuch that they had no provisions; they had gone on to the branch of hungary Creek at which we shall noon it tomorrow in order to hunt.    we had fine grass for our horses this evening.—

Well, they're off on the serious trek over the mountains and there'll be no turning back this time.  They appear to have plenty of guides at this early date of the crossing.

June 23rd Monday, 1806

[Lewis] Apprehensive from Drewyer's delay that he had met with some difficulty in procuring a guide, and also that the two indians who had promised to wait two nights for us would set out today, we thought it most advisable to dispatch Frazier and Wiser to them this morning with a vew if possible to detain them a day or two longer; and directed that in the event of their not being able to detain the indians, that Sergt. Gass, R & J. Feilds and Wiser should accompany the indians by whatever rout they might take to travellers rest and blaize the trees well as they proceeded and wait at that place untill our arrivall with the party.    the hunters as usual wer dispatched early this morning.    the does now having their fawns the hunters can bleat them up  and in that manner kill them with more facility and ease.    the indians pursue the game so much on horseback in this neighbourhood that it is very shye.    our hunters killed 4 deer and a bear today.    at [4?] P. M. Drewyer Shannon and Whitehouse returned. Drewyer brought with him three indians who had consented to accompany us to the falls of the Missouri for the compensation of two guns.    one of those men is the brother of the cutnose and the other two   are the same who presented Capt. Clark and myself each with a horse on a former occasion at the Lodge of the broken arm. these are all young men of good character and much respected by their nation.    we directed the horses to be brought near camp this evening and secured in such manner that they may be readily obtained in the morning being determined to make an early start if possible.— Colter one of our hunters did not return this evening.

Lady luck seems to shine on our party this day.  They've had two good hunting days, back to back, and at long last have three young, respected Nez Perce to lead them over the high country.  Things are indeed looking up.

June 22nd Sunday, 1806

[Clark] This morning by light all hands who Could hunt were Sent out, the result of the days performance was greater than we had even hopes for.    we killed eight Deer and three Bear.    we despatched whitehouse to the Kooskooke near our old encampment above Collins Creek in order to precure Some Salmon which we understood the nativs are now takeing in considerable quantities near that place.    we gave whitehouse a fiew beeds which I unexpectedly found in one of my waistcoat pockets to purchase the fish.    nothing further occured in the Course of this day.    the last evening was Cool but the day was remarkably pleasant with a fine breeze from the N. W.    neither Shannon Drewyer nor whitehouse returned this evening.— Potts legg is inflamed and very painfull to him. we apply a poltice of the root of Cowes.—.

The hunters have a banner day, and the salmon run finally reachs the Clearwater.  Even with no word yet from Drewer and Shannon, the Captains must have rested a bit easier that evening.

June 21, Saturday, 1806

[Lewis]   We collected our horses early set out on our return to the flatts.    we all felt some mortification in being thus compelled to retrace our steps through this tedious and difficult part of our rout, obstructed with brush and innumerable logs of fallen timber which renders the traveling distressing and even dangerous to our horses.    one of Thompson's horses is either choked this morning or has the distemper very badly I fear he is to be of no further servive to us.    an excellent horse of Cruzatte's snagged himself so badly in the groin in jumping over a parsel of fallen timber that he will evidently be of no further service to us.    at the pass of Collin's Creek we met two indians who were on their way over the mountain; they had brought with them the three horses and the mule that had left us and returned to the quawmash grounds.    these indians returned with us about ½ a mile down the creek where we halted to dine and graize or horses at the same place I had halted and remained all night with the party on the [blank] of Septembr last.    as well as we could understand the indians they informed us that they had seen Drewyer and Shannon and that they would not return untill the expiration of two days; the cause why Drewyer and Shannon had not returned with these men we are at a loss to account for.    we pressed these indians to remain with us and to conduct us over the mountain on the return of Drewyer and Shannon.    they consented to remain two nights for us and accordingly deposited their store of roots and bread in the bushes at no great distance and after dinner returned with us, as far as the little prarie  about 2 miles distant from the creek, here they halted with their horses and informed us they would remain untill we overtook them or at least two nights. they had four supenumery horses with them.    we sent on four hunters a head to the quawmash flatts to take an evenings hunt; they so far succeeded as to kill one deer.    we left Reubin and J. Feilds at the Creek where we dined together with Sergt Gass in order to hunt about that place untill our return.    at seven in the evening we found ourselves once more at our old encampment  where we shall anxious await the return of Drewyer and Shannon.—

They're back where they started from June 15th and are still waiting for Drewer and Shannon to bring the two young chiefs or other experienced guides. The deer seem to remain scarce.

June 20th Friday, 1806

[Clark] The hunters turned out early in different directions, our guiggers also turned out with 2 guigs a Bayonet fixed on a pole, a Scooping nett and a Snar made of horse.     near the ford of the Creek in a deep hole we killed Six Salmon trout & 2 others were killed in the Creek above in the evening. Reubin Field killed a redish brown bear which was very meagure.    the tallons of this bear was remarkably Short broad at their base and Sharply pointed, this was of the Species the Chopunnish call Yahkar.    as it was in very low order the flesh was indifferent. Labiesh & Crusat returned late in the evening with one deer which the former had killed.    the hunters assured us that, their greatest exertions would not enable them to support us here more than one or two days longer, from the great scercity of game and the dificuelt access of the Country, the under brush being very thick and great quantities of fallen timber.    as we shall necessarily be compelled to remain more than two days for the return of Drewyer & Shannon we determine to return in the morning as far as the quawmash flatts, and endeaver to lay in another Stock of meat for the mountains, our former Stock now being nearly exhosted as well as what we have killed on our rout.    by returning to the quawmash flatts were Shall Sooner be informed wheather or not we can precure a guide to conduct us through the Mountains; Should we fail in precureing one, we are deturmined to wrisk a passage on the following plan immediately, because Should we wait much longer, or untill the Snow disolves in Such manner as to enable us to follow the road we cannot expect to reach the U States this Winter; this is that Capt. L. or myself shall take four of our most expert woods men with 3 or four of our best horses and proceed two days in advance takeing a plentiful Supply of provisions.    for this party to follow the road by the mark the indins have made in many places with their baggage on the Sides of the trees by rubbing against them, and to blaize the trees with a tomahawk as they proceed.    that after proceeding two days in advance of Hungary Creek, two of those men would be sent back to the party who by the time of their return to hungary Creek would have reached that place.    the men So returning would be enabled to inform the main party of the probable Suckcess of the proceeding party in finding the road and of their probable progress, in order that Should it be necessary, the main party by a delay of a day or two a hungary Creek, should give the advance time to make the road through before the main party could overtake them, and thus prevent delay on that part of the rout where no food is to be obtained for our horses. Should it So happen that the advance Should not find the road by the marks of the trees after attempting it for two days, the whole of them would return to the main party.    in which Case we would bring back our baggage and attempt a passage over the Mountains through the Country of the Shoshones further to the South, by way of the main S Westerly fork of Lewis's river and Madisons or Gallitins river's, where from the information of the Chopunnish, there is a passage where at this season of the year is not obstructed by snow, though the round is very distant and would require at least a month in it's preformance. The Shoshones informed us when we first met with them that there was a passage across the Mountains in that quarter but represented the difficuelties arriseing from Steep ruggid high mountains, and also an extensive and barren plain which was to be passed without game, as infinitely more difficuelt than the rout by which we Came.    from the Circumstance of the Chopunnish being at war with that part of the Shoshones who inhabit the Country on this side of the Mountains through which the road passes, I think it is highly probable they cannot be well informed with respect to the road, and further, had there been a better road in that quarter the Shoshones on the East fork of Lewis's river who knew them boath would not have recommend'd that by which we came to this country. The travelling in the Mountains on the Snow, at present is very good, the Snow bears the horses perfectly; it is a firm coase Snow without a crust, and the horses have good foot hold without slipping much; the only dificuelty is finding the road, and I think the plan we have  devised will Suckceed even Should we not be enabled to obtain a guide.    altho the Snow may be Stated on an average at 10 feet deep, yet arround the body of the trees it has disolved much more than in other parts, not being generally more than one or two feet deep imediately at the roots of the trees, and of course the marks made by the rubbing of the Indian baggage against them is not Concealed. The reason why the Snow is not comparitively So Shallow about the roots of the trees, I prosume proceeds as well from the roots Snow in falling being thrown off from their bodies by the thick and Spreading branches, as from the reflection of the Sun against the trees and the warmth which they in Some measure acquire from the earth which is never frozen underneath those masses of Snow.    4 of our horses are absent.

The Captains busy themselves with plans in case their Indian guides fail to show.  A southern route along the Snake River is even considered.  The hunting and fishing situations aren't that good at their present location and they'll have to make a decision fairly soon.

June 19th Thursday, 1806

[Lewis] Our hunters were out very early this morning, they returned before noon with one deer only.    the Fishermen had been more unsuccessfull, they returned without a single fish and reported they could find but few and those they had tryed to take in vain.    they had broke both their giggs which were of indian fabrication made of bone. I happened to have a pointed peice of iron in my pouch which answered by cuting in two peices to renew boath giggs.    they took one fish this evening which proved to be a salmon trout much to our mortification, for we had hoped that they were the salmon of this spring arrival and of course fat and fine.    these trout are of the red kind they remain all winter in the upper parts of the rivers and creeks and are generally poor at this season. At 2 P. M. J & R Feilds arived with two deer; John Sheilds and LaPage came with them, they had not succeeded in finding their horses.    late in the evening Frazier reported that my riding horse that of Capt Clark and his mule had gone on towards the Quawmash flatts and that he had pursued their tracks on the road about 2½ miles.    we determined to send out all the hunters in the morning in order to make a fair experiment of the pactability of our being able to subsist at this place and if not we shall move the day after to the Quawmash flatts.    the musquetoes have been excessively troublesome to us since our arrival at this place particularly in the evening. Cruzatte brought me several large morells   which I roasted and eat without salt pepper or grease    in this way I had for the first time the true taist of the morell which is truly an insippid taistless food.  our stock of salt is now exhausted except two quarts which I have reserved for my tour up Maria's River and that I left the other day on the mountain.—

Deer hunting still proves difficult, the big fish turn out to be steelheads instead of salmon returning from the ocean, and Lewis says they're out of salt except for two quarts he left with their baggage. Not a real good day for our Party.

June 18th Wednesday, 1806

[Clark]    This morning we had considerable dificuelty in collecting our horses they haveing Strageled of to a considerable distance in Serch of food on the Sides of the mountains among the thick timber, at 9 oClock we Collected them all except 2 one of Sheilds & one of Drewyer's.    we Set out leaving Shields and LePage to collect the two lost horses and follow us. We dispatched Drewyer and Shannon to the Chopunnish Indians in the plains beyond the Kooskooske in order to hasten the arrival of the Indians who promised to accompany us, or to precure a guide at all events and rejeoin us as Soon as possible. We Sent by them a riffle which we offered as a reward to any of them who would engage to conduct us to Clarks river at the entrance of Travellers rest Creek; we also directed them if they found difficuelty in induceing any of them to accompany us to offer the reward of two other guns to be given them immediately and ten horses at the falls of Missouri.    we had not proceeded far this morning before J. Potts cut his leg very badly with one of the larger knives; he cut one of the large veins on the iner side of the leg; Colters horse fell with him in passing hungary creek and himself and horse were driven down the Creek a considerable distance roleing over each other among the rocks.    he fortunately escaped with[out] much injurey or the loss of his gun.    he lost his blanket.    at 1 P. M we returned to the glade on a branch of hungary Creek where we had dined on the 16th instant.    here we again halted and dined.    as there was some appearance of deer about this place we left J. & R Field with directions to hunt this evening and tomorrow morning at this place and join us in the evening in the Meadows on Collin's Creek where we intended to remain tomorrow in order to restour horses and hunt.    after dinner we proceeded on to the near fork of Collins Creek and encamped in a pleasant Situation at the upper part of the Meadows about 2 miles above our encampment of the 15th inst.    we Sent out Several hunters but they returned without having killed any thing—.    they saw a number of large fish in the Creek and Shot at them Several times without Suckcess.    we Gibson and Colter to fix each of themselves a gigg in the morning and indeaver to take Some of those fish.    the hunters Saw much fresh appearance of Bear, but very little deer Sign.    we hope by the means of the fish together with what deer and bear we can kill to been abled to Subsist untill our guide arives without the necessaty of returning to the quawmash flats.    there is great abundance of good food here to Sustain our horses.    we are in flattering expectations of the arrival of two young chiefs who informed us that they intended to accompany us to the U. States, and Should Set out from their village in 9 nights after we left them on the 19th inst. if they Set out at that time Drewyer & Shannon will meet them, and probably join us on the 20th or 21st—. Musquetors Troublesome.

Well, the Party is back far enough to have their horses on good feed.  They're willing to pay very well for guides and undoubtedly will hook up with the two young chiefs soon.  Meanwhile sounds like the fishing may soon pick up.

June 17th Tuesday, 1806

[Lewis]   we collected our horses and set out early; we proceeded down hungry creek about seven miles passing it twice; we found it difficult and dangerous to pass the creek in consequence of its debth and rapidity; we avoided two other passes of the creek by ascending a very steep rocky and difficult hill.    beyond this creek the road ascends the mountain to the hight of the main leading ridges which divides the Waters of the Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers.    this hill or reather mountain we ascended about 3 miles when we found ourselves invelloped in snow from 12 to 15 feet deep even on the south sides of the hills with the fairest exposure to the sun; here was winter with all it's rigors; the air was cold, my hands and feet were benumbed.    we knew that it would require five days to reach the fish wears at the entrance of Colt Creek,  provided we were so fortunate as to be enabled to follow the proper ridges of the mountains to lead us to that place; of this Drewyer our principal dependance as a woodsman and guide was entirely doubtfull; short of that point we could not hope for any food for our horses not even underwood itself as the whole was covered many feet deep in snow.    if we proceeded and should get bewildered in these mountains the certainty was that we should loose all our horses and consequently our baggage instruments perhaps our papers and thus eminently wrisk the loss of the discoveries which we had already made if we should be so fortunate as to escape with life.    the snow boar our horses very well and the travelling was therefore infinitely better that the obstruction of rocks and fallen timber which we met with in our passage over last fall when the snow lay on this part of the ridge in detached spots only.    under these circumstances we conceived it madnes in this stage of the expedition to proceed without a guide who could certainly conduct us to the fish wears on the Kooskooske [NB: Travellers (Creek) Rest], as our [NB: See note]   horses could not possibly sustain a journey of more than five days without food.    we therefore came to the resolution to return with our horses while they were yet strong and in good order and indevour to keep them so untill we could procure an indian to conduct us over the snowey mountains, and again to proceed as soon as we could procure such a guide, knowing from the appearance of the snows that if we remained untill it had desolved sufficiently for us to follow the road that we should not be enabled to return to the United States within this season.    having come to this resolution, we ordered the party to make a deposit for all the baggage which we had not immediate use for,   and also all the roots and bread of cows which they had except an allowance for a few days to enable them to return to some place at which we could subsist by hunting untill we procured a guide.  [word crossed out, illegible] we left [my] our instruments papers &c beleiving them safer here than to wrisk them on horseback over the roads and creeks which we had passed.    our baggage being laid on scaffoalds and well covered we began our retrograde march at 1 P. M. having remained about 3 hours on this snowey mountain.    we returned by the rout we had come to hungry creek, which we ascended about 2 miles and encamped.      we had here more grass for our horses than the preceeding evening yet it was but scant.    the party were a good deel dejected tho' not so as I had apprehended they would have been.    this is the first time since we have been on this long tour that we have ever been compelled to retreat or make a retrograde march.    it rained on us most of this evening.—

A notable first for our Party, the Captains decide to backtrack in order to find grass for the horses, and an Indian guide to steer them over the mountains.

June 16th Monday, 1806

[Clark] Collected our horses early and Set out 7 A M proceeded on up the Creek through a gladey Swompy bottom with grass and quawmash Crossed the Creek to the East and proceeded on through most intolerable bad fallen timber over a high Mountain on which great quantity of Snow is yet lying premisquissly through the thick wood, and in maney places the banks of snow is 4 feet deep.    we noned it or dined on a Small Creek in a small open Vally where we found Some grass for our horses to eate, altho Serounded by Snow    no other Convenient Situation Short of the glades on Hungery Creek where we intended to encamp, as the last probable place, at which we Shall find a Sufficent quantity of grass for maney days. This morning Windsor bursted his rifle near the Muzzle. Vigitation is propotionable backward; the dog tooth Violet is just in blume, the honeysuckle, huckleberry and a Small Species of white maple are beginning to put foth their leaves, where they are clear of the Snow, those appearances in this comparratively low region augers but unfavourably with respect to the practibility of passing the Mountains, however we deturmine to proceed, accordingly after takeing a hasty meal we Set out and Continued our rout through a thick wood much obstructed with fallen timber, and interupted by maney Steep reveins and hills which wer very high.    the Snow has increased in quantity So much that the great part of our rout this evening was over the Snow which has become Sufficently firm to bear our horses, otherwise it would have been impossible for us to proceed as it lay in emince masses in Some places 8 or ten feet deep. We found much dificulty in finding the road, as it was So frequently covered with Snow.    we arived early in the evening at the place I had killed and left the flesh of a horse for the party in my rear last Septr.    here is a Small glade in which there is Some grass, not a Sufficency of our horses, but we thought it adviseable to remain here all night as we apprehended if we proceeded further we should find less grass. The air is pleasant in the Course of the day, but becomes very cold before morning not withstanding the Shortness of the night. Hungary Creek is but Small at this place but is deep and runs a perfect torrent; the water is perfectly transparent and as Cold as ice.    the titch pine, white pine Some Larch and firs consists the timber, the long leafed pine extends but a Short distance on the Mts. Capt. L. killed a Small brown pheasant today, it feeds on the tender leaves and buds of the fir and pitch pine.    in the forepart of the day I observed the Cullumbine the blue bells and the Yellow flowering pea in blume.    there is an abundance of a Species of Anjelico in the mountains much Stronger to the taiste, and more highly Scented than that Species common to the U' States. I know of no particular virtue or property it posesses    the nativs dry it Cut it in Small pieces which they string on a Small Cord and place about the necks; it Smells pleasently.    we Come 15 Ms. today.

Warm days and very cold nights for the next few days as the Party gains altitude. The fifteen miles made today will probably look good for the distances they'll be able to make the next few days with no feed for the sixty-two head of horses they left the lowlands with.

June 15th Sunday, 1806

[Lewis] We had some little difficulty in collecting our horses this morning they had straggled off to a greater distance than usual.    it rained very hard in the morning and after collecting our horses we waited [an hour] for it to abait, but as it had every appearance of a settled rain we set out at 10 A. M.    we passed a little prarie at the distance of 8½ me.   to which we had previously sent R. Feilds and Willard.    we found two deer which they had killed and hung up.    at the distance of 2½ miles further we arrived at Collins's Creek where we found our hunters; they had killed another deer, and had seen two large bear together the one black and the other white.    we halted at the creek, dined and graized our horses.    the rains have rendered the road very slippery insomuch that it is with much difficulty our horses can get on    several of them fell but sustained no injury.    after dinner we proceeded up the creek about ½ a mile, passing it three times, thence through a high broken country to an Easterly fork of the same creek about 10½ miles and incamped near a small prarie in the bottom land.    the fallen timber in addition to the slippry roads made our march slow and extreemly laborious on our horses.    the country is exceedingly thickly timbered with long leafed pine, some pitch pine, larch, white pine, white cedar or arborvita of large size,   and a variety of firs.    the undergrowth principally reed root   from 6 to 10 feet high with all the other speceis enumerated the other day.    the soil is good; in some plaices it is of a red cast like our lands in Virginia about the S. W. mountains.   Saw the speckled woodpecker,   bee martin  and log cock or large woodpecker.    found the nest of a humming bird,  it had just began to lay its eggs.— Came 22 Miles today.

They camp this night 22 miles closer to the Missouri River.  Not too bad for the first day over the big mountains, considering the heavy rain.  Lewis takes time to note the difference altitude makes in the timber varieties and also the many birds.  The hunters have pretty good luck as well.

June 14th Saturday, 1806

[Clark] Sent out Hunters this morning    Colter killed a deer and brought it in by 10 A M    Drewyer did not return untill night    he wounded deer but could get none &c    [blank] neither of the other hunters killed [any] nothing.    we had our articles packed up ready for a Start in the morning, our horses Collected and hobble that they may not detain us in the morning.    we expect to Set out early, and Shall proceed with as much expedition as possible over those Snowey tremendious mountains which has detained us near five weeks in this neighbourhood waiting for the Snows to melt Sufficent for us to pass over them.    and even now I Shudder with the expectation with great dificuelties in passing those Mountains, from the debth of Snow and the want of grass Sufficient to Subsist our horses as about 4 days we Shall be on the top of the Mountain which we have every reason to beleive is Covered with Snow the greater part of the year.

Well, it's now or never for our Party as they're off for the high mountains early next morning.

June 13th Friday, 1806

[Lewis]   Reubin Feilds and Willard were ordered to proceed on our road to a small prarie 8 miles distant on this side of Collins's Creek and there hunt until our arrival;   they departed at 10 A. M.    about noon seven of our hunters returned with 8 deer; they had wounded several others and a bear but did not get them.    in the evening Labuish and Cruzatte returned and reported that the buzzards  has eaten up a deer which they had killed butchered and hung up this morning. The indian who visited us yesterday exchanged his horse for one of ours which had not perfectly recovered from the operation of castration and received a small ax and a knife to boot, he seemed much pleased with his exchange and set out immediately to his village, as if fearfull that we would cansel the bargain which is customary among themselves and deemed only fair.    we directed the meat to be cut thin and exposed to dry in the sun.    we made a digest of the Indian Nations West of the Rocky Mountains which we have seen and of whom we have been repeated informed by those with whom we were conversent.    they amount by our estimate to 69,000 [NB?: about 80,000] Souls.—

The Party's hunters finally find some quanities of game.  Lewis works on a census for the Northwestern tribes.

June 12th Thursday, 1806

[Clark]  All our hunters except Gibson returned about noon; none of them had killed any thing except Shields who brought with him two deer.    in the evening they resumed their hunt and remained out all night.    an Indian visited us this evening and Spent the night at our Camp. Whitehouse returned with his horse at 1 P. M.    the days are very worm and the Musquetors our old Companions have become very troublesom.

The Cutnose informed us on the 10th before we left him that two young Chiefs would overtake us with a view to accompany us to the Falls of the Missouri and probably to the Seat of our Governmt.    nothing interesting occurred in the course of this day.    our camp is agreeable Situated in a point of timbered land on the eastern borders of an extensive leavel and butifull prarie which is intersected by Several Small branches near the bank of one of which our Camp is placed.    the quawmash is now in blume at a Short distance it resemhles a lake of fine clear water, So complete is this deseption that on first Sight I could have Sworn it was water.

Word that two young chiefs will accompany them eastward is welcome.  The hunters aren't having all that much luck despite the change of base camp.  The time for them to resume their homeward trek nears.

June 11 Wednesday, 1806

[Lewis] All our hunters were out this morning by daylight; Labuish and Gibson only proved successful, the former killed a black bear of the brown speceis and a very large buck, the latter also killed a fine fat buck.    five of the Indians also turned out and hunted untill noon, when they returned without having killed anything; at three P. M. the left us on their return to ther villages.    previous to their departure one of our men exchanged an indifferent horse with one of them for a very good one.    in the evening our hunters resumed the chase; as game has become scarce and shye near our camp they were directed to hunt at a greater distance and therefore set our prepared to remain all night and make a mornings hunt in grounds not recently frequented. Whitehouse returned this morning to our camp on the Kooskooske in surch of his horse.—    As I have had frequent occasion to mention the plant which the Choppunish call quawmash   I shall here give a more particular discription of that plant and the mode of preparing it for food as practiced by the Chopunnish and others in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains with whom it forms much the greatest portion of their subsistence.    we have never met with this plant but in or adjacent to a piny or fir timbered country, and there always in the open grounds and glades; in the Columbian vally and near the coast it is to be found in small quantities and inferior in size to that found in this neighbourhood and in the high rich flatts and vallees within the rocky mountains.    it delights in a black rich moist soil, and even grows most luxuriantly where the land remains from 6 to nine inches under water untill the seed are nearly perfect which in this neighbourhood or on these flats is about the last of this month. neare the river where I had an opportunity of observing it the seed were begining to ripen on the 9th inst. and the soil was nearly dry.    it seems devoted to it's particular soil and situation, and you will seldom find it more than a few feet from the inundated soil tho' within it's limits it grows very closely in short almost as much so as the bulbs will permit; the radix is a tunicated bulb, much the consistence shape and appearance of the onion, glutanous or somewhat slymy [EC?: mucous] when chewed and almost tasteless and without smell in it's unprepared state; it is white except the thin or outer tunicated scales which are few black and not succulent; this bulb is from the size of a nutmeg to that of a hens egg and most commonly of an intermediate size or about as large as an onion of one years growth from the seed.    the radicles are numerous, reather large, white, flexable, succulent and diverging.    the foliage consists of from one to four seldom five radicale, linear sessile and revolute pointed leaves; they are from 12 to 18 inches in length and from 1 to ¾ of an inch in widest part which is near the middle; the uper disk is somewhat groved of a pale green and marked it's whole length with a number of small longitudinal channels; the under disk is a deep glossy green and smooth. the leaves sheath the peduncle and each other as high as the surface of the earth or about 2 inches; they are more succulent than the grasses and less so than most of the lillies hyesinths &c.—    the peduncle is soletary, proceeds from the root, is columner, smooth leafless and rises to the hight of 2 or 2½ feet.    it supports from 10 to forty flowers which are each supported by seperate footstalk of ½ an inch in length scattered without order on the upper portion of the peduncle.    the calix is a partial involucret situated at the base of the footstalk of each flower on the peduncle; it is long thin and begins to decline as soon as the corolla expands.    the corolla consists of six long oval, obtusly pointed skye blue or water coloured petals, each about 1 inch in length; the corolla is regular as to the form and size of the petals but irregular as to their position, five of them are placed near ech other pointing upward while one stands horizantally or pointing downwards, they are inserted with a short claw on the extremity of the footstalk at the base of the germ; the corolla is of course inferior; it is also shriveling, and continues untill the seeds are perfect. The stamens are perfect, six in number; the filaments each elivate an anther, near their base are flat on the inside and rounded on the outer terminate in a subulate point, are bowed or bent upwards, inserted on the inner side and on the base of the claws of the petals, below the germ, are equal both with rispect to themselves and the corolla, smooth & membraneous.    the Anther is oblong, obtusely pointed, 2 horned or forked at one end and furrowed longitudinally with four channels, the upper and lower of which seem almost to divide it into two loabs, incumbent patent, membranous, very short, naked, two valved and fertile with pollen, which last is of a yellow colour—.    the anther in a few hours after the corolla unfoalds, bursts, discharges it's pollen and becomes very minute and shrivled; the above discription of the anther is therefore to be understood of it at the moment of it's first appearance.    the pistillum is only one, of which, the germ is triangular reather swolen on the sides, smooth superior, sessile, pedicelled, short in proportion to the corolla atho' wide or bulky; the style is very long or longer than the stamens, simple, cilindrical, bowed or bent upwards, placed on the top of the germ, membranous shrivels and falls off when the pericarp has obtained its full size.    the stigma is three cleft very minute, & pubescent.    the pericarp is a capsule, triangular, oblong, obtuse, and trilocular with three longitudinal valves.    the seed so far as I could judge are numerous not very minute and globelar.—    soon after the seeds are mature the peduncle and foliage of this plant perishes, the grownd becomes dry or nearly so and the root encreases in size and shortly becomes fit for use; this happens about the middle of July when the natives begin to collect it for use which they continue untill the leaves of the plant attain some size in the spring of the year.    when they have collected a considerable quantity of these roots or 20 30 bushels which they readily do by means of stick sharpened at one end, they dig away the surface of the earth forming a circular concavity of 2½ feet in the center and 10 feet in diameter; they next collect a parsel of split dry wood with which they cover this bason in the grown perhaps a foot thick, they next collect a large parsel of stones of about 4 or 6 lbs. weight which are placed on the dry wood; fire is then set to the wood which birning heats the stones; when the fire has subsided and the stones are sufficiently heated which are nearly a red heat, they are adjusted in such manner in the whole as to form as level a surface as pissible, a small quantity of earth is sprinkled over the stones and a layer of grass about an inch thick is put over the stones; the roots, which have been previously devested of the black or outer coat and radicles which rub off easily with the fingers, are now laid on in a conical pile, are then covered with a layer of grass about 2 or 3 inches thick; water is now thrown on the summit of the pile and passes through the roots and to the hot stones at bottom; some water is allso poared arround the edges of the hole and also finds its way to the hot stones; as soon as they discover from the quantity of steem which issues that the water has found its way generally to the hot stones, they cover the roots and grass over with earth to the debth of four inches and then build a fire of dry wood all over the conincal mound which they continue to renew through the course of the night or for ten or 12 hours after which it is suffered to cool two or three hours when the earth and grass are removed and the roots thus sweated and cooked with steam are taken out, and most commonly exposed to the sun on scaffoalds untill they become dry, when they are black and of a sweet agreeable flavor.    these roots are fit for use when first taken from the pitt, are soft of a sweetish tast and much the consistency of a roasted onion; but if they are suffered to remain in bulk 24 hour after being cooked they spoil.    if the design is to make bread or cakes of these roots they undergo a second process of baking being previously pounded after the fist baking between two stones untill they are reduced to the consistency of dough and then rolled in grass in cakes of eight or ten lbs are returned to the sweat intermixed with fresh roots in order that the steam may get freely to these loaves of bread.    when taken out the second time the women make up this dough into cakes of various shapes and sizes usually from ½ to ¾ of an inch thick and expose it on sticks to dry in the sun, or place it over the smoke of their fires.—    the bread this prepared if kept free from moisture will keep sound for a great length of time. this bread or the dryed roots are frequently eaten alone by the natives without further preparation, and when they have them in abundance they form an ingredient in almost every dish they prepared.    this root is palateable but disagrees with me in every shape I have ever used it.—

Lewis mentions the hunters killing two deer and one of their horses returning to their former campground, but devotes most of this days post to the camas plant.  I grew up on the smallest of Idaho's two Camas Prairies, the southern one.  The nearest Indian reservation was Fort Hall some two hundred miles to the east of us.  When I was a kid, during the 1930's, there were always two or three small groups of natives from the reservation who made an annual trip to our Camas Prairie for the camas roots.  One group came to my Father's ranch on Corral Creek every year,  because the meadows along this creek would be totally blue when the Camas bloomed in early June. Dad always let them make camp in a nice little cove of willows, by the creek, in one of his pastures.  They stopped coming during WWII mostly because it was old folks that came and when they died off, younger Indians didn't feel the urge. The Indians arrived by means of old dead axle wagon pulled by two draft horses, not an easy way of travel.  Their women gathered camas roots every day using a pointed stick to pry out the bulbs.  They also made gloves and moccasains from deer hides the local folks would give or trade them.  The camas was a very big part of their diet and their customs. I remember tasting some of the patties they made, much like Lewis's description, and while it wasn't a good, pleasant taste, but it really wasn't bad either.

June 10th Tuesday, 1806

[Clark] rose early this morning and had all the horses Collected except one of Whitehouses horses which could not be found, an Indian promised to find the horse and bring him on to us at the quawmash fields at which place we intend to delay a fiew days for the laying in Some meat by which time we Calculate that the Snows will have melted more off the mountains and the grass raised to a sufficient hight for our hoses to live.    we packed up and Set out at 11 A M    we Set out with the party each man being well mounted and a light load on a 2d horse, besides which we have several supernumary horses in case of accident or the want of provisions, we therefore feel ourselves perfectly equiped for the Mountains.    we assended the hills which are very high and about three miles in extent our course being N. 22° E, thence N. 15° W 2 ms: to Collins Creek. Thence North 5 Miles to the Eastern boarders of the Quawmash flatts where we encamped near the place I first met with the Chopunnish Nation last fall.    the pass of Collins Creek was deep and extreemly difficult tho' we passed without sustaining further injury than wetting some of our roots and bread. The Country through which we passed is extreemly fertile and generally free from Stone, is well timbered with several Species of fir, long leafed pine and Larch.     the undergrowth is choke cherry near the watercourses, black alder, a large species of red root now in blume, a Growth which resembles the poppaw in it's leaf and which bears a berry with five valves of a deep purple colour, two species of Shoemate, Seven bark, perple haw, Service berry, Goose berry, wildrose, honey suckle which bears a white berry, and a Species of dwarf pine which grows about 10 or 12 feet high, bears a globarlar formed cone with Small Scales, the leaf is about the length and much the appearance of the pitch pine having it's leaves in fassicles of two; in other respects they would at a little distance be taken for the young plants of the long leafed pine. There are two Species of the wild rose both quinque petallous and of a damask red, but the one is as large as the common red rose of our guardens. I observed the apples of these Species last fall to be more than triple the Size of those of the ordinary wild rose; the Stem of this rose is the Same with the other tho' the leaf is somewhat larger.    after we encamped this evening we Sent out our hunters; Collins killed a doe on which we Suped much to our Satisfaction, we had not reached the top of the river hills before we were overtaken by a party of 8 Indians who informed me that they were gowing to the quawmash flatts to hunt; their object I belive is the expectation of being fed by us in which however kind as they have been we must disappoint them at this moment as it is necessary that we Should use all frugallaty as well as employ every exertion to provide meat for our journey.    they have encamped with us.    we find a great number of burrowing Squirels about our camp of which we killed Several; I eate of them and found them quit as tender and well flavd. as our grey squirel. Saw many Sand hill crains and Some ducks in the Slashey Glades about this place—.

The Party leaves their camping place for some time and moves to Weippe Prairie, in Clearwater County, Idaho, near the western bank of Jim Ford Creek and about two miles southeast of present site of Weippe.  Their hope that game, mostly deer, will be more plentiful.  Their horse numbers are now such that every soldier has a mount and a pack horse.  Looks like they're ready for the high mountains.

June 9th Monday, 1806

[Lewis] This morning we had all our horses brought up and indeavoured to exchange five or shix with the Indians in consequence of their having unsound backs but succeeded in exchanging one only. Hohâstillpilp with several of the natives who visited us yesterday took leave of us and set out for the plains near Lewis's river where the nation are about to assemble themselves. The broken arm made us a short visit this morning and took leave of us, being about to set out with his village today in order to join the nation at their rendezvouz on Lewis's R. The Cutnose or Neeshneeparkkeeook borrowed a horse and rode down the Kooskooske River a few miles this morning in quest of some young eagles which he intends raising for the benifit of their feathers; he returned soon after with a pair of young Eagles of the grey kind; they were nearly grown and prety well feathered.    in the evening the young Chief who gave both Capt. C. and myself a horse some time since, came to our camp with a party of young men and remained all night.    this evening one of our party obtained a very good horse for an indifferent one by giving the indian an old leather shirt in addition.    we eat the last of our meat yesterday evening and have lived on roots today.    our party seem much elated with the idea of moving on towards their friends and country, they all seem allirt in their movements today; they have every thing in readiness for a move, and notwithstanding the want of provision have been amusing themselves very merrily today in runing footraces pitching quites, prison basse &c.    the river has been falling for several days and is now lower by near six feet than it has been; this we view as a strong evidence that the great body of snow has left the mountains, though I do not conceive that we are as yet loosing any time as the roads is in many parts extreemly steep rocky and must be dangerous is wet and slippry; a few days will dry the roads and will also improve the grass.—

The Party stays pretty much in vacation mode, waiting for the high snows to melt some.  They're out of meat again--maybe they'll have to butcher some of their saddle sored horses.

June 8th Sunday, 1806

[Clark] Drewyer returned this morning from the chase without killing any thing.    his horse left him last night and he prosued him near our camp before he cought him. The Sick Chief is much mended, he can bear his weight on his legs and recovers Strength.    the Child has nearly recovered. The Cut nose and ten or 12 came over today to visit us, two of those were of the tribes from the plains of Lewis's river whome we had not before Seen; one of those men brought a horse which I gave a tomahawk which I had exchanged for with the Chief of the Clahclahlah's   Nation below the Great rapids of Columbia, and broken-down horse which was not able to Cross the mountains.    we also exchanged 2 of our indeferent horses for Sound back horses.    in the evening Several foot races were run by the men of our party and the Indians; after which our party divided and played at prisoners base untill night.    after dark the fiddle was played and the party amused themselves in danceing.    one of those Indians informed us that we could not cross the mountains untill the full of the next moon, or about the 1st of July.    if we attempted it Sooner our horses would be three days without eateing, on the top of the Mountns. this information is disagreeable to us, in as much as it admits of Some doubt, as to the time most proper for us to Set out.    at all events we Shall Set out at or about the time which the indians Seem to be generally agreed would be the most proper.    about the middle of this month—.

The Captains receive yet another date for tackling the high mountains.  In the mean-time they continue to upgrade their horse herd, certainly the biggest factor in making an easy crossing of the Rockies.  Clark doesn't leave us any information of who won the foot races and other games.

June 7th Saturday, 1806

[Clark] The two young cheafs and other Indians who accompanied them Crossed the river and returned to their Village this morning after brackfast; Shabono Sergt Gass McNeal, Whitehouse & Goodrich accompanied them for the purpose of purchaseing or exchangeing old peces of Sane, fish gig, peces of iron, bullets, and old files and Such articles as they Could raise for ropes and Strings for to lash their loads, and bags to Cary their roots in Sergt. Gass, Shabono & McNeal returned at 2 P M haveing precured a String each only. Whitehouse and Goodrich continued at the Village all night. Hohastillpilp crossed the river to day and brought over a horse and gave it to Frazier one of our party who had made him a present previously of a Par of Canidian Shoes.    one of our men informed me one of the young Chiefs who had given us two horses already was in Serch of one which he intended to give to me. Geroge Drewyer Set out on a hunting excurtion up Collins's Creek alone.    our party are all much engaged in prepareing Sadles and packing up their Stores of Provisions &c—    The Flat Head river  is about 150 yards wide at this place and discharges a vast body of water; notwithstanding it's high State the water remains nearly transparent, and it's temperature appears to be quit as cold as that of our best Springs.    we met with a butifull little bird in this neighbourhood about the Size and Somewhat the Shape of the large Sparrow.    it measures 7 inches from the extremity of the beak to that of the tail, the latter Occupying 2½ inches.    the beak is reather more than half an inch in length, and is formed much like the Virginia Nightingal; red bd. it is thick and large for a bird of it's size, wide at the base, both Chaps convex, and pointed, the upper exceeds the under chap a little is Somewhat cirved and of a brown Colour; the lower chap of a Greenish yellow.    the eye full reather large and of a black colour both puple and iris.    the plumage is remarkably delicate; that of the neck and head is of a fine orrange yellow and red.    the latter predomonates on the top of the head and around the base of the beak from whence it gradually diminishes towards the lower part of the Neck, the orring yellow prevails most, the red has the Appearance of haveing been laid over a Ground of yellow.    the breast, the Sides, rump and some long feathers which lie between the legs extend underneath the tail is of a fine orrange yellow.    the tail, back and wings are black, except a Small Strip of yellow on the outer part of the Middle joint of the wing, ¼ of an inch wide and an inch in length.    the tail is composed of 12 feathers of which those in the Center are reather Shortest, and the plumage of all the feathers of the tail is longest on that Side of the quill next to the Center of the tail.    the legs and feet are black, nails long and Sharp; it has four toes on each foot, of which three are forward and one behind; that behind is as long as the two outer of the three toes in front—.

The Party continues to acquire more horses and Clark holds forth on the western tanager.  A really slow news day for all of the posters.

June 6th Friday, 1806

[Lewis] This morning Frazier returned having been in quest of some roots and bread which had left at the lodg of the Twisted hair when on his way to the fishery on Lewis's river.    the Twisted hair came with him but I was unable to converse with him for the want of an interpreter, Drewyer being absent with Capt. C. This Cheif left me in the evening and returned to his village. Capt C. Visited the Broken Arm today agreeably to his promise; he took with him Drewyer and several others.    they were received in a friendly manner. The Broken Arm informed Capt C. that the nation would not pass the mountain untill the latter end of the summer, and that with rispect to the young men whom we had requested should accompany us to the falls of the Missouri, were not yet scelected for that purpose nor could they be so untill there was a meeting of the nation in counsil.    that this would happen in the course of ten or twelve days as the whole of the lodges were about to remove to the head of the Commeâp Creek in the plain near Lewis's river,   that when they had assembled themselves they would hold a council and scelect the young men.    that if we set out previously to that period the men would follow us.    we therefore do not calculate on any assistance from them as guides, but depend more upon engageing some of the Ootlashshoots in the neighborhood of Travellers rest C. for that purpose. The broken arm gave Capt. C. a few dryed Quawmas roots as a great present, but in our estimation those of cows are much better, I am confident they are much more healthy. The men who were with Capt. C. obtained a good store of roots and bread in exchange for a number of little notions, using the Yanke phrase, with which their own enginuity had principally furnished them.    on examination we find that our whole party have an ample store of bread and roots for our voyage, a circumstance not unpleasing. They retuned at 5 P. M. shortly after which we were visited by Hohâstillpilp the two young Cheifs who gave us the horses in behalf of the nation some time since and several others, who remained all night. The Kooskooske is about 150 Yds. wide at this place and discharges a vast body of water; notwithstanding it high state the water remains nearly transparent, and it's temperature appeas to be quite as cold as that of our best springs.    we meet with a beautifull little bird   [EC: Piranga ludoviciana] in this neighbourhood about the size and somewhat the shape of the large sparrow.    it is reather longer in proportion to it's bulk than the sparrow.    it measures 7 inches from the extremity of the beek to that of the tail, the latter occupying 2½ inches.    the beak is reather more than half an inch in length, and is formed much like the virginia nitingale;   it is thick and large for a bird of it's size; wide at the base, both chaps convex, and pointed, the uper exceeds the under chap a little [and a] is somewhat curved and of a brown colour; the lower chap of a greenish yellow.    the eye full reather large and of a black colour both puple and iris.    the plumage is remarkably delicate; that of the neck and head is of a fine orrange yellow and red, the latter predominates on the top of the head and arround the base of the beak from whence it graduly deminishes & towards the lower part of the neck, the orrange yellow prevails most; the red has the appearance of being laid over a ground of yellow.    the breast, the sides, rump and some long feathers which lie between the legs and extend underneath the tail are of a fine orrange yellow.    the tail, back and wings are black, ecept a small stripe of yellow on the outer part of the middle joint of the wing, ¼ of an inch wide and an inch in length.    the tail is composed of twelve feathers of which those in the center are reather shortest, and the plumage of all the feathers of the tail is longest on that side of the quill next the center of the tail.    the legs and feet are black, nails long and sharp; it has four toes on each foot, of which three are forward and one behind; that behind is as long as the two outer of the three toes in front.

The Captains' request for guides and support for the upcoming trip over the mountians seems to be a bit controversial among the tribesmen.  Anyway, the Party seems to have a goodly supply of roots and other edibles, thanks to the generosity of the Nez Perce.  Lewis discourses on some of the birds of this area, the northern cardinal  and the western tanager.

June 5th Thursday, 1806

[Clark] Colter and Bratten were permitted to visit the Indian Village to day for the purpose of tradeing for roots and bread, they were fortunate and made a good return.    we gave the Indian Chief another Sweat to-day, continuing it as long as he could bear it.    in the evening he was very languid but Still to improve in the use of his limbs.    the Child is revovereing fast. I applied a plaster of Sarve made of the Rozen of the long leafed pine, Beas wax and Beare oil mixed, which has Subsided the inflomation entirely, the part is Considerably Swelled and hard—.    in the evening Reuben Fields, G. Shnnon, Labiech, & Collins returned from the chaise and brought with them five deer and a brown Bear.

Among the Grasses of this Country I observe a large Species which grows in moist Situations; it rises to the hight of Eight or ten feet, the Culm is jointed, hollow, Smooth, as large as a goose quill, and more firm than ordinary grass; the leaf is linner broad and rough; it has much the appearance of the Meadin Cain as it is Called in the Southern parts of the U' States, and retains it's virdue untill late in the fall.    this grass propegates principally by the Root which is horozontal and perennial.—.    a Second Species grows in tussucks and rises to the hight of Six or Eight feet; it Seams to delight in the Soil of the river bottoms which possess agreater mixture of Sand than the hills in this neighbourhood.    this is also a harsh Course grass; it appears to be the Same which is Called the Corn grass in the Southern States, and the Foxtail in Virginia.    a third Species resembles the cheet, tho' the horses feed on it very freely.    a fouth and most prevalent Species is a grass which appears to be the Same Called the blue Grass common to maney parts of the United States; it is common to the bottoms as well as the uplands, is now Seeding and is from 9 inches to 2 feet high; it affords an excellent paterage for horses and appears to bear the frost and Snow better than any grass in our Country; I therefore regrete very much that the Seed will not be ripe before our probable departure.    this is a fine Soft grass and would no doubt make excellent hay if cultivated. I do not find the Green Sword here which we met with on the lower part of the Columbia. There are also Several Species of the wild Rye to be met with in the praries.    among the plants and Shrubs common to our Country I observe here the Seven bark, Wild rose, vineing honey suckle, Sweet willow, red willow, long leafed pine, Cattail or Coopers Flag. Lambs quarter, Strawberries, Raspberries, Goose berries, tongue grass, Mustard, tanzy, Sinquefield, horse mint, water penerial,  [18] elder, Coalts foot, Green Plantin, canser weed, Shoemate,

and Several of the pea blume flowering plants.—. Frazier who had permission to visit the Twisted Hairs Lodge at the distance of ten or twelve miles did not return this evening—. The river falls in course of the day and rises Some at night as will be Seen by the remarks in the Diary of the weather.    this most probably is the melding of the Snows dureing the day &c.

A pretty slow news day with the group.  They're still sweating the paralyzed chief but the other sick folks are all healed up.  Their hunters good luck continues and  Clark writes an essay on the local grasses.

June 4th Wednesday, 1806

[Lewis] about noon The 3 Cheifs   left us and returned to their vilages.    while they were with us we repeated the promises we had formerly made them and invited them to the Missouri with us, they declined going untill the latter end of the summer and said it was there intention to spend the ensuing winter on the East side of the Rocky mountains.    they gave us no positive answer to a request which we made, that two or three of their young men should accompany me to the falls of the Missouri and there wait my return from the upper part of Maria's river  where it was probable I should meet with some of the bands of the Minnetares from Fort de Prarie;   that in such case I should indeavor to bring about a good understanding between those indians and themselves, which when effected they would be informed of it though the young men thus sent with me, and that on the contrary should I not be fortunate enough to meet with these people nor to prevail on them to be at peace they would equally be informed through those young men, and they might still remain on their guard with rispect to them untill the whites had it in their power to give them more effectual releif. The Broken Arm invited us to his village and said he wished to speak to us before we set out, and that he had some roots to give us for our journey over the mountains; Capt. C. promised to visit him as he wished the day after tomorrow.—    Sheilds returned this evening from the quawmash grounds with 2 deer which he had killed.

Lewis invitation to the three chiefs gets put down.  Broken Arm offers some roots for their trip over the snow and their hunters have some luck.

June 3rd Tuesday, 1806

[Clark] Our invalids are all on the recovery; bratten is much Stronger and can walk about with Considerable ease.    the Indian Chief appears to be gradually recovering the use of his limbs, and the child is nearly well; the inflomation on his neck Continus but the Swelling appears to Subside. we Still Continue the application of the onion poltice.    at 3 P. M. the broken arm and three wariors visited us and remained all night. Colter, Jos. Fields and Willard returned this evening with five deer and one bear of the brown Species; the hair of this was black with a large white Spot on the breast containing a Small circular black Spot.    (this Species of bear is Smaller than our Common black bear) this was a female bear and as our hunters informed us had cubs last year, this they judged from the length and Size of her tits &c.    this bear I am Confident is not larger than the yerlin Cubs of our Country. To day the Indians dispatched an express over the mountains to Travellers rest or to the neighbourhood of that Creek on Clark's river in order to learn from a band of Flat-Heads who inhabit that river and who have probably Wintered on Clarks river near the enterance of travellers rest Creek, the occurrences which have taken place on the East Side of the mountains dureing the last winter.    this is the band which we first met with on that river.    the Mountains being practicable for this express we thought it probable that we could also pass, but the Chiefs informs us that Several of the Creek's would yet swim our horses, that there was no grass and that the road was extreemly deep and slipery; they inform us that we may pass Conveniently in twelve or fourteen days.    we have come to a resolution to remove from hence to the Quawmash Grounds beyond Colins Creek on the 10th to hunt in that neighbourhood a fiew days, if possible lay in a Stock of Meat, and then attempt the Mountains about the Middle of this month. I begin to lose all hope of any dependance on the Salmon as this river will not fall Sufficiently to take them before we Shall leave it, and as yet I see no appearance of their running near the Shore as the indians informed us they would in the course of a fiew days. I find that all the Salmon which they precure themselves they obtain on Lewis's river, and the distance thither is too great for us to think of Sending after them, even had we merchendize with which to purchase the salmon.—.

Local natives advise our Captains that because a messenger has arrived from east of the Rockies this doesn't mean the white men can now cross over.  This judgement later proves true.  Clark ponders the bear question further and the patients they've been treating are fast mending.

June 2nd Monday, 1806

[Clark] McNeal and York were Sent on a tradeing voyage over the river this morning.    having exhosted all our Merchendize we were obliged to have recourse to every Subterfuge in order to prepare in the most ample manner in our power to meet that wretched portion of our journy, the Rocky Mountains, where hungar and Cold in their most regorous form assail the waried traveller; not any of us have yet forgotten our those mountains in September last, I think it probable we never Shall. Our traders McNeal and York are furnished with the buttons which Capt L—. and my Self Cut off of our Coats, Some eye water and Basilicon which we made for that purpose and Some phials of eye water and Some tin boxes which Capt L. had brought from Philadelphia.    in the evening they returned with about 3 bushels of roots and Some bread haveing made a Suckcessfull voyage, not much less pleasing to us than the return of a good Cargo to an East India merchant.—

Shields, Collins, Reuben & Joseph Field & Shannon Set out on a hunting excurtion to the quaw mash the lower side of Collins Creek & towards the Mountains.

Drewyer arived this evening with Neeshneparkkeeook and Hohashillpilp who had accompanied him to the lodge of the person who had our tomahawks.    he obtained both the tomahawks principally by the influence of the former of those Chiefs.    the one which had been Stolen we prized most as it was the private property of the late Serjt. Floyd and I was desireous of returning it to his friends. The man who had this tomahawk had purchased it from the man who had Stolen it, and was himself at the moment of their arival just expireing.    his relations were unwilling to give up the tomahawk as they intended to bury it with the deceased owner, but were at length to do so for the Consideration of a handkerchief, two Strands of beeds, which drewyer gave them and two horses given by the Chiefs to be Killed agreeable to their custom at the grave of the deceased. The custom of Sacrificeing horses to the disceased appears to be Common to all the nations of the plains of the Columbia.    a Wife of Neeshneeparkkeeook died Some Short time Sence, himself and her relations sacrificed horses to her. The indians inform us that there is a plenty of Moos to the S. E. of them on the East branch of Lewis's river which they Call Tommawamah River. About noon Sergt. Ordway Frazier and Wiser returnd. with 17 Salmon and Some roots of the Cows; the distance was So great from whence they brought the fish, that most of them were nearly Spoiled.    those fish were at fat as any I ever saw; Sufficiently So to cook themselves without the addition of Grease or butter; those which were Sound were extreemly delicious; their flesh is of a fine rose colour with a Small admixture of yellow.    these men Set out on the 27th ulto: and in Sted of finding the fishing Shore at the distance of half a days ride as we had been informed, they did not reach the place at which they obtained their fish untill the evening of the 29th haveing traveled near 70 miles.    the rout they had taken however was not a direct one; the Indians Conducted them in the first instance to the East fork of Lewis's river about 10 miles above it's junction with the South branch, a distance of about 50 miles where they informed them they might obtain fish; but on their arival at that place finding that the Salmon had not arived or were not taken, they were Conducted down that river to a fishery a fiew miles below the junction of the forks of Lewis's River about 20 miles further, here they remained one day and with some dificuelty, they purchased the Salmon which they brought with them.    the first 20 ms. of their rout was up Commeâp Creek and through a plain open Country, the hills of the Creek Continued high and broken with Some timber near it's borders, the ballance of heir rout was through a high broken Mountanious Country.    generally well timbered with pine the soil fertile.    in this quarter the meet with abundance of deer and Some big-horned Animals. The East fork of Lewis's river they discribe as one Continued rapid of about 150 yards wide, it's banks are in most places Solid and perpindicular rocks, which rise to a great hight; it's hills are mountanious high.    on the top of Some of those hills over which they passed, the Snow had not entirely disappeared, and the grass was just springing up.    at the fishery on Lewis's river below the forks there is a very Considerable rapid, nearly as Great from the information of Sergt. Ordway as the Great falls of the Columbia    the river 200 yards wide.    their common house at this fishery is built of Split timber 150 feet long and 35 feet in width, flat at top.    the general Course from here to the forks of Lewis's river is a little to the west of South about 45 ms. The men at this Season resort their fisheries while the womin are employed in collecting roots—.    both forks above the junction of Lewis's river appear to enter a high Mountainious Country.    our horses are all recovering & I have no hesitation in declareing that I believe that the Indian Method of guilding preferable to that practised by ourselves.—

Ordway's detail return from the Snake River  with some salmon and Clark declare's the stock of trade goods all but non-existant.   Drewer, together with a couple of chiefs, recovers two missing tomahawks which had been stolen when the Party passed through the heading West.

June 1st Sunday, 1806

[Clark] Late last evening Shabono & Lapage returnd. haveing made a broken voyage.    they assended the river on this Side nearly opposit to the Village Eight miles above us, here their led horse who had on him their Stock of Merchindize fell into the river from the Side of a Steep Clift and swam over, they Saw an indian on the opposit side whome they provailed on to drive their horse back again to them; in swiming the horse lost a dressed Elk skin of LaPages and Several small articles, and their paint was distroyed by the water.    here they remained and dryed their articles the evening of the 30th ulto: the indians at the village learned their errand and not haveing a canoe, made an attempt Yesterday morning made an attempt to pass the river to them on a raft with a parcel of roots and bread in order to trade with them; the indian raft Struck a rock upset and lost their Cargo; the river haveing Swallowed both Merchindize & roots, our traders returned with empty bags. This morning Geo: Drewyer accompanied by Hohastillpilp Set out in Serch of two tomahawks of ours which we have understood were in the possession of certain indians resideing at a distance in the Plains on the South Side of Flat Head river; one is a pipe tomahawk which Capt L. left at our Camp on Musquetor Creek and the other was stolen from me whilst we lay at the forks of this and Chopunnish rivers last fall. Colter and Willard Set out this morning on a hunting excurtion towards the quawmash grounds beyond Colins creek.    we begin to feel Some anxiety with respect to Sergt. Ordway and party who were Sent to Lewis's river for salmon; we have receved no intilligence of them Sence they Set out.    we desired Drewyer to make Some enquiry after the Twisted hair; the old man has not been as good as his word with respect to encamping near us, and we fear we Shall be at a loss to procure guides to conduct us by the different routs we wish to pursue from Travillers rest to the waters of the Missouri.—.

Clark worries about Ordway's salmon fishing detail who are supposed to be fishing on the Snake.  Meanwhile, they work at attaining different foodstuffs from the Indians.